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How to grow tomatoes - step by step instructions. Outdoor tomatoes: from planting to harvest All about growing tomatoes

19.01.2021

Experienced gardeners know how the cultivation of tomatoes is organized in open field. Tomatoes grow in almost every garden. It's hard to imagine without them a private house or give. Tomatoes can be consumed fresh or harvested for the winter, canned or frozen. What are the features of growing tomatoes in an open garden?

Growing tomatoes in the open field is quite common, since not everyone has greenhouses and hotbeds. The optimal time for planting tomato seedlings is the end of May or the beginning of June. Planting tomatoes in open ground is not very difficult. For this purpose, you can purchase ready-made adult plants or plant tomato seeds for open ground, bought in a store or on the market.

To grow tomatoes, you must follow the following rules:

  • select the optimal plant varieties;
  • fertilize the land;
  • provide tomatoes with sufficient insolation;
  • provide proper care.

Some tomato varieties are not suitable for outdoor cultivation. They will be subject to temperature fluctuations and yields will be low.

How to choose the right variety

The choice of a variety of tomatoes for open ground is the most important task. There are short and tall varieties of tomatoes. For unprotected soil, the so-called determinant varieties of tomatoes are widely used. Their growth is unlimited. Such tomatoes bloom constantly and are the most suitable for growing outside greenhouses and hotbeds. There are also superdeterminant varieties.

Tomatoes for open ground are represented mainly by undersized and early ripening varieties. Those plants that ripen quickly are smaller. The most commonly used varieties of tomatoes for open ground are:

  • "Sultan";
  • "Demidov";
  • "Northern beauty";
  • "Snezhana";
  • "Blagovest";
  • "Eugene";
  • "Aurora";
  • "Golden Queen";
  • "Kemerovo";
  • "Ballerina";
  • "Uncle Styopa";
  • "Scarlet Mustang";
  • "Laura";
  • "Siberian trump card";
  • "Sensei".

These are the best varieties of tomatoes for open ground. Determinant varieties have the following properties:

  • compact;
  • give few stepchildren;
  • quickly bear fruit;
  • small height.

These tomatoes include varieties "Alpha", "Pyshka", "Stolypin", "Aphrodite", "Explosion". Tall tomatoes are most often grown in greenhouses and greenhouses. When buying seedlings or seeds, you need to pay attention to the size, shape and weight of fruits, ripening dates. Some tomatoes are better for salads, while others are better for canning.

Land preparation

Not everyone knows how to grow tomatoes outdoors and get a good harvest. Tomatoes like to grow in a sunny area, so it is not advisable to plant them in the shade behind the house. The land must be protected from the wind. Loamy, sandy or humus-rich soil is optimal. It should not be heavy and contain a lot of clay.

It is best to plant seedlings in those beds on which cucumbers, onions or carrots previously grew. It is not recommended to plant plants where potatoes grew. The land there contains many pests (larvae of the wireworm, Colorado potato beetle).

A good neighbor for tomatoes is strawberries (strawberries). With this neighborhood, the yield of both crops increases.

If possible, then you can determine the acidity of the soil. The optimum pH for tomatoes is 6-7. Before planting tomatoes, you need to fertilize the soil in the fall. Compost, humus, peat, superphosphate, ammonium nitrate are used to enrich the soil. It is important that every year you need to change the place for planting tomatoes. Ridges for seedlings should be 100-120 cm wide and 15-20 cm high. It is better if they are located from north to south, and the distance between them is at least 70 cm.

Tomato Planting Technique

Growing tomatoes outdoors involves proper planting. Low-growing tomatoes for open ground are arranged in rows. The interval between plants is 30-35 cm. A distance of 40-45 cm should be left between rows. If medium-sized varieties are available, then the distance is increased by 10 cm.

There are the following planting options:

  • square nest;
  • tape-nesting;
  • under film.

In the first option, the bed is divided into squares of 70 cm in size. In the presence of determinant varieties, 2-3 plants should be planted in 1 nest at once. If there are early ripening varieties that give wide bushes, then 3 plants are planted in one hole. Mid-season and late-ripening varieties are planted singly. Landing is carried out in late May-early June, when the threat of frost has passed.

Planting tomatoes in open ground should be carried out together with a clod of earth. First, pour a little water into a pot or plastic container with a plant. This will facilitate the process of removing the earthen clod. Early varieties of tomatoes are best planted in the evening, when the air temperature drops slightly. The depth of the holes for planting tomatoes should be equal to the depth of the pots in which they grew earlier. This is necessary in order not to damage the roots during planting.

Water must be poured into the dug holes. 1 bucket is enough for 8-10 holes. Humus is added to the wells along with mineral fertilizer in a ratio of 3: 1. Do not apply too much fertilizer. An earthen ball with a plant is placed vertically in the hole and sprinkled with earth. For faster development of the root system, it is required to cut off part of the leaves from the seedlings.

How to tie tomatoes

There are the following ways to garter tomato seedlings:

  • with wooden stakes;
  • tapestry;
  • with the help of caps;
  • cellular.

Tomatoes need to be tied up so that the stems do not break, do not bend and develop better. The garter provides better access to the sun's rays. In case of heavy rain or wind, tied tomatoes will be reliably protected. Tying facilitates the process of caring for plants (watering, spraying, loosening). During the fruiting of tomatoes, the fruits will not be located on the ground. This will protect them from pests.

The tying protects the tomatoes from rotting. Every gardener must know not only how to properly plant tomatoes, but also how to tie them up.

The easiest way to tie is with pegs. For the manufacture of stakes, any material (wood, plastic, metal) can be used. The height of the stakes depends on the height of the seedlings. Tall tomatoes need to be tied up with stakes 2-2.5 m long.

The stakes should be 20-30 cm larger than the plants. They are driven into the ground to a depth of 20-30 cm. Thus, the height of the driven stakes corresponds to the height of the plants. Stakes should be placed at a distance of 10 cm from the plants. Synthetic materials are used for tying. It can be twine or a piece of fabric. The line won't fit.

If there is a large plantation, and the number of tomatoes is in the hundreds, then in this situation it is more convenient to tie the trellis. This method is suitable in the presence of tall plants. For this, wooden poles are installed, to which horizontal slats are attached. Instead of rails, thick wire can be used. It should be located in several rows. As the tomatoes grow, they will be attached to the support.

Formation of open ground tomatoes (video)

Caring for planted tomatoes

Care includes the removal of stepchildren, top dressing, watering, spraying, weeding the beds, pollination, loosening the soil, protection from possible frost.

The technology for growing tomatoes is simple, but from the owners land plot it takes some effort and patience.

Even the presence the best varieties tomato for open ground is not a guarantee of a large crop. If there should be a frost in the coming days, the tomatoes need to be piled up and covered with burlap or film. The technology of growing tomatoes necessarily includes watering. This crop does not like frequent watering. Plants need to be watered abundantly, but rarely. After it, a small crust should form on the bed.

The first time the plants need to be watered only 1-2 weeks after planting. During this time, tomatoes must adapt to new conditions. For irrigation, only warm and settled water is used. It is recommended to water tomatoes once a week (in May and the beginning of the month) and 2-3 times a week (in the middle and end of summer). Watering is carried out with a bucket under the root. The optimal time for watering is evening.

For better pollination of tomatoes, it is advisable to plant mustard or basil on the garden bed. At least 2 times a month, side shoots (stepchildren) should be removed. They interfere with the normal development of the main trunk. Young shoots are cut off with a knife or scissors, and longer ones need to be pinched off.

For fertilizer use the following means:

  • mullein solution;
  • nitrophoska;
  • chicken manure;
  • ammonium nitrate;
  • superphosphate.

Top dressing is carried out once every 10 days. The first feeding is organized 2 weeks after planting the tomatoes in the garden. Thus, to obtain a large number of tomatoes, you need to choose the most productive varieties that are well suited for open ground.

Tomato seedlings: from picking to planting (video)

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If you want to grow a large crop of tomatoes as quickly as possible, it is preferable to plant seedlings in a greenhouse. And if the timing is not an end in itself for you, and you prioritize with a bias towards taste characteristics, then it is better to grow tomatoes in the open field - such fruits are more fragrant and last longer. The best option is to have an easily mounted greenhouse, which, after the threat of the first frost, can be quickly dismantled and the plants left to develop in the open.

Tomato is an annual plant of the Solanaceae family. Tomato came to Russia during the reign of Catherine II in the VIII century. At first it was considered poisonous, but gradually they began to use food. Today, scientists have proven that tomato is a storehouse of vitamins and has a wide range useful properties.

On this page you will learn how to grow tomatoes outdoors and closed ground, as well as how to harvest and store the crop.

The timing of fruit ripening, their quality and the size of the crop as a whole largely depend on the quality of the seedlings. Quality seedlings cannot be obtained from bad seeds. Before growing tomatoes, the seeds must undergo pre-sowing preparation.

  1. First, full-weight seeds should be selected (they will give powerful, even, friendly shoots). To do this, pour a 3-5% solution of table salt (30-50 g of salt per 1 liter of water) into a small bowl, pour the seeds into it and mix well. After 1.5-2 minutes. seeds that float to the surface are discarded, and the rest are used as seed material.
  2. To grow seedlings of tomatoes, it is necessary to determine the germination of seeds and their germination energy. To do this, take a certain number of seeds (from 10 to 100) without a choice. Spread them evenly on saucers (or other dishes convenient for you), placing moistened paper, a cloth napkin, and sawdust scalded with boiling water under them. Having covered from above, put in a warm (20-25 ° C) dark place; moisturize if necessary. The first time, count the number of germinated in three days. These data will correspond to the germination energy. The optimal time for sprouting tomatoes is 12 days. After it, calculate the number of germinated seeds as a percentage (at 10 germinating seeds, the number of germinated seeds is multiplied by 10; at 50 - by 2; at 100 - the number of germinated seeds will correspond to the actual germination, expressed as a percentage). The percentage of germinated seeds for growing tomato seedlings gives laboratory germination. The actual, so-called field, germination will be lower than the laboratory one. If the data obtained is below 70%, then it is better not to use these seeds - you will not get a good harvest. Well, if you repeat the germination operation.

  3. A mandatory technique before growing tomato seeds is their dressing against fungal and viral diseases. Commercially available drugs are used against fungal diseases: agrocyte, benlat, fundazol, phytolavin-100, trichodermin-BL, etc. You will find the methods and doses for their use in the accompanying instructions on the packages. In the fight against viral diseases, you can use a 1% solution of potassium permanganate (1 g of the drug per 100 ml of water), a 2% solution of hydrochloric acid. The solution is taken 3-4 times by volume more than seeds. The seeds are placed in a linen bag and immersed in the solution for half an hour, after which the seeds are washed in running water.

    4. As practice shows, it is possible to grow a good tomato crop only by disinfecting the seeds. To do this, you can use undiluted aloe juice - you need to keep the seeds in it for a day. At the same time, they should not be washed, and aloe leaves should be kept in the refrigerator for 5-6 days before extracting the juice.

    Look at the photo - you can also disinfect seeds for growing tomatoes by heat treatment:

    The easiest way is to put them in direct sunlight for 3-4 days, stirring occasionally.

    You can hang gauze bags with seeds near a heat source for 1.5-2 months. The temperature should be around 20°C.

  4. Tomato is a thermophilic culture. To increase its cold resistance, pre-sowing seed hardening should be carried out. Heated, disinfected, germinated seeds are placed in a refrigerator at a temperature of 1-3 ° C for three days. As a result, the resistance of seedlings and seedlings to cold increases markedly. It is only necessary to remember that this effect will disappear if in the future you “pamper” the plants with increased temperature with an excess of moisture and nitrogen in the soil.
  5. One of the main methods of preparing seeds for sowing is soaking. Pre-wetted seeds germinate faster - seedlings can be obtained 2-6 days earlier than when sown with dry seeds. According to the technology of growing tomatoes, the seeds are placed in a clean container and filled with water so that it covers them. Duration of soaking - from 12 to 18 hours at a temperature of 18-20 °C. The higher the air temperature, the shorter the soaking time. Soaking is stopped when 1-1.5% of the seeds peck. They are dried and sown in well-moistened soil.
  6. In order to grow tomatoes correctly, as experienced gardeners advise, it is recommended to soak not in pure water, but in solutions of trace elements during the day. The treatment in plant growth stimulants also has a positive effect. Recommended: manganese and zinc sulphate (50 mg per 1 liter of water), aluminum sulphate (200 mg per 1 liter of water), baking soda (5 g per 1 liter of water), etc.

    7. As practice shows, it is possible to grow good tomatoes by using vitamins for soaking seeds. To do this, the seeds are soaked for 5-7 hours in a solution at a temperature of 19 ° C of vitamin B) and vitamin PP (10 mg of any should be taken per 100 ml).

    It can be soaked in a solution of wood ash (soak 2 tablespoons of ash for a day in 1 liter of water, mix the solution periodically, strain) for 3-6 hours; slurry (dilute 10 times); aloe juice (dilute 10 times); aspirin (5 mg per 1 liter of water). After processing, the seeds are dried to flowability and sown.

  7. It is very important to treat the seeds in water saturated with air for 13-19 hours. The easiest way is to use ordinary aquarium compressors. The tip of the compressor hose is lowered to the bottom of an elongated can filled with water by 2/3 of the volume. Seeds fall asleep after turning on the compressor. At the end of the procedure, the seeds are dried to flowability and sown (when sown in waterlogged soil, the germination of bubbling seeds may decrease).
  8. It is also recommended to use such a secret of growing tomatoes as drageeing. With it, the seeds are covered with a nutrient mixture, which is prepared from ventilated lowland non-acidic sifted peat (600 g), humus (300 g), crushed dry mullein (100 g) and up to 15 g of superphosphate powder is added to 1 kg of this mixture. Wet seeds are placed in a jar, where the mixture is added in portions, while the jar of seeds is shaken until a sufficient amount of the protective-nutritional mixture sticks to them.

As a result of the methods carried out, you will prepare the seeds well for sowing. How to sow them, at what time, and how to care for plants, you will learn below.

Secrets of growing tomatoes: the right agricultural technique for planting seeds

In Russian climatic conditions, in open and closed ground, tomato crops are obtained through seedlings.

Seeds of tall and medium-sized varieties of tomatoes for growing in a greenhouse are sown for seedlings in the second or third decade of February.

In the first or second decade of March, low-growing varieties of tomatoes should be sown for seedlings for growing in open ground.

The pre-sowing preparation of seeds was discussed above. If for some reason (hopefully valid) you have not prepared the seeds for planting according to the full scheme, you can use its abbreviated version:

  • place the seeds in a canvas bag for 15-20 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 g of manganese per 1 glass of water), and then rinse with water;
  • warm the seeds for 20 minutes at 50 °C;
  • soak the seeds for several minutes in cold water.

The boxes are filled with a mixture consisting of:

  1. equal parts of soddy land and lowland peat with the addition (per 1 bucket of the mixture) 60 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium sulfate;
  2. equal parts of soddy land and lowland peat with the addition (per 1 bucket of the mixture) 100 g of garden mixture or 2 cups of wood ash;
  3. one part of peat, one part of humus, one part of sod land with the addition (per 1 bucket of the mixture) 1 liter can of river sand, 1 tbsp. spoons of wood ash and 1 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate.
  4. 3 parts of peat, 1 part of sod land, 1 part of humus with the addition (per 1 kg of the mixture) of 1 g of ammonium nitrate, 10 g of superphosphate and 4 g of potassium salt;
  5. peat (75%), sod land (20%), mullein (5%) with the addition (per 1 bucket of the mixture) 15 g of ammonium nitrate, 40 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium chloride;
  6. peat (75%), horse manure (20%), mullein (5%) with the addition (per 1 bucket of the mixture) 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium chloride.

The acidity of peat mixtures should be slightly acidic or close to neutral (pH 6.5-6.8). With increased acidity, the mixture is lime.


The prepared mixture for the proper cultivation of tomatoes must be thoroughly mixed, and moistened well immediately before sowing the seeds. The seeds are planted to a depth of 1.0-1.5 cm, the distance between rows is 6 cm. The sown seeds are sprinkled with the same mixture in which they are planted. For the fastest emergence of shoots and less evaporation of moisture, the boxes are covered with plastic wrap (glass). Using the correct agricultural techniques for growing tomatoes, boxes with planted seeds are placed in a warm, dark place (near the battery) until germination. Then the box is put on the windowsill (or other suitable place), the film (glass) is removed. In the first week after germination, the temperature regime is maintained: during the day 16-18 ° C, at night 13-15 ° C. Then it is increased to 18-20 ° C during the day and 15-16 ° C at night. Before picking, seedlings are watered 2-3 times. The last time watered a few hours before picking seedlings.

Watch the video "Growing Tomatoes", which shows how to plant seeds correctly:

The next section of the article is devoted to how to properly grow tomato seedlings before transplanting into open or closed ground.

Tomato seedling care tips: photos and growing features

When caring for tomato seedlings while growing tomatoes, turn the containers with them 180 ° as often as possible so that the plants do not stretch in one direction towards the light source. When watering, water should not fall on the leaves. The picking of seedlings is carried out after the formation of 1-3 true leaves.

Seedlings are planted in containers measuring 8 × 8 cm, 8 × 10 cm or 12 × 12 cm, etc., culling out the sick and weak. Stretched plants are buried halfway during transplantation;

While caring for seedlings while growing tomatoes, seedlings pinch the root by 1-2 cm, which stimulates the development of a powerful root system. Planted seedlings are lightly watered with warm water, while the nutrient mixture around the roots settles and compacts. After picking, the seedlings are shaded until they are completely engrafted (usually 2-3 days). After 3 weeks, seedlings can be transplanted into large containers, while culling. Initially, the temperature should be 20-22 ° C during the day, 14-15 ° C at night. After the appearance of 4-5 permanent leaves, it is reduced to 18-20 ° C during the day and 14-15 ° C at night. The soil should not be waterlogged to avoid damage to seedlings with a black leg. The recommended watering regimen is once a week, if necessary - 2 times a week.

Another tip for growing tomatoes– use of the right fertilizers. When 2-3 true leaves are formed, the first top dressing is carried out (1 tablespoon of nitrophoska per 10 liters of water or mullein at a dilution of 1:6). Top dressing is repeated after 10 days, doubling the rate of fertilizer.

To grow tomatoes as strong as possible, for the prevention of diseases 5 days before planting seedlings in the ground, it is sprayed with Bordeaux liquid or a 0.1% solution of copper sulfate (10 g of the drug per 1 bucket of water).

When growing indoor seedlings, young plants are drawn to the light, which leads to their stretching and curvature. Given this feature, when growing tomatoes, place an ordinary mirror next to the container in which the seedlings grow, so that its front side is facing the light source. Seedling lighting will improve, in addition, it will be distributed more evenly.

By the end of cultivation, good seedlings of ordinary varieties should be 20-30 cm high with a stem thickness of 0.8-1 cm, have 8-9 leaves and 1-2 flower clusters.

These photos show how to grow strong and healthy tomato seedlings:

How to grow a good crop of tomatoes in a greenhouse and soil: crop rotation

Already in the second decade of April, it is necessary to plant seedlings in film greenhouses with additional heating; in the third decade of April - in greenhouses without heating but with additional shelter of plants with film, paper bags, burlap, etc.; without heating and additional shelter - in the first decade of May, and in open ground - in the first half of June.

In order to grow a good crop of tomatoes in a greenhouse or in the ground, as proper agricultural technology suggests, you should follow the rules of crop rotation. If you cultivate tomatoes in one place for several years in a row, this reduces the yield by half. This is due to the fact that the same nutrients are taken out of the soil, and plants are affected by pests and diseases through the soil.

The precursors for tomatoes are:

  • the best - carrots, beets, onions;
  • good - annual root crops, cucumber, early and cauliflower, onion on a turnip;
  • satisfactory - medium and late cabbage, perennial herbs;
  • bad - potatoes and other plants of the Solanaceae family.

According to the rules for growing tomatoes, it is recommended to return the plants to their original place no earlier than after 2-3 years.

Basic rules of care when growing tomatoes in open ground

The soil for growing tomatoes in the ground is dug up in the fall and organic fertilizers are applied, the amount of which is determined by the fertility of the site. In the spring, it is necessary to loosen the soil twice with the addition of 80 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride per square meter; nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the form of dressings.

On the previous day before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly in order to select them with a large clod of soil at the roots (the less the seedlings lose roots, the higher their survival rate). It is better to plant tomatoes in cloudy weather in the morning, on a sunny day - in the evening. Seedlings are deepened by 15-20 cm vertically. Overgrown plants are planted obliquely in furrows or holes 15-20 cm deep, while the first inflorescence must remain on the surface. Planting is carried out in two rows with a row spacing of 40-50 cm and a distance between plants of 40-45 cm, depending on whether tall or short varieties are planted. Nearby, pegs 50-80 cm high are driven in. Low-growing plants can not be tied up (the main thing is that they do not touch the ground), medium and tall ones require a mandatory garter (if necessary, brushes are also tied up).

The distance between plants affects the final yield. At, for example, 70-90 cm, the crop drops sharply, almost by half. With a free planting, the plant begins to "fatten": it branches strongly, forms a lot of flower brushes, which delays the ripening of fruits.

When frost threatens, plants are protected with temporary shelters.

Within 10 days after planting, watering is not performed.

Tomatoes are very responsive to watering. When caring for tomatoes during outdoor cultivation, water the plants under the root so that water does not fall on the leaves and fruits, approximately 1 time per week. The number of waterings varies depending on weather conditions. Water only with warm water, soaking the soil to a depth of at least 40 cm. With the appearance of ovaries and the beginning of fruit filling, the need for water increases dramatically. After watering, the soil loosens, and the plants spud.

The importance of supplements cannot be overestimated.

The video below demonstrates how to fertilize tomatoes when grown in the ground:

The first root dressing is done three weeks after planting (per 10 liters of water: 500 ml of liquid mullein, 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska; the norm is 500 ml of solution per plant).

The second dressing is carried out at the beginning of the blooming of the second flower brush (5-10 g of ammonium nitrate, 10-15 g of potassium sulfate per square meter).

The third root top dressing is carried out during the blooming of the third flower brush (for 10 liters of water: 1 tablespoon of liquid sodium humate, 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska; the norm is 5 liters of solution per square meter).

Weakened plants make foliar top dressing: they are sprayed with a solution consisting of 10 liters of water and 1 tbsp. spoons of urea.

Responsive tomato and fertilizing solutions of organic fertilizers: mullein (1:5), slurry (1:5), bird droppings (1:15). It is recommended to add to a bucket of solution: 50-60 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium sulfate, 250-300 g of wood ash, 0.5 g of boric acid, 0.3 g of manganese sulfate and spend it under 15-20 plants.

Watch a video on how to grow tomatoes outdoors using the right agricultural practices:

To combat diseases and pests, plants are treated with:

  • 1% Bordeaux liquid (12-15 days after planting seedlings; in total - 4-5 treatments);
  • insecticides;
  • a solution of laundry soap (100-200 g per 10 liters of water; strain), etc.

You yourself know that planting tomatoes must be kept clean from weeds.

How to grow a large crop of tomatoes in a greenhouse: video, care and cultivation technology

The climatic conditions of the central Russian region are such that a good harvest of tomatoes can be consistently obtained only in shelters. Such shelters can be heated and unheated greenhouses and small-sized film shelters.

When constructing greenhouses and greenhouses, it should be borne in mind that tomatoes, especially during flowering, require thorough ventilation. Therefore, you must build vents not only on both sides, but also on top. Shelters are set up so that they are illuminated by the sun from morning to evening. According to the technology of growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, the ridges are made along a week before planting seedlings. Their height is 35-40 cm, and their width is 60-90 cm; the passage between them is at least 60 cm.

In order to grow tomatoes from seedlings in a greenhouse, as experienced vegetable growers advise, the ridges need to be dug up and, depending on the soil, peat, sawdust, humus, sand, etc., as well as fertilizers should be added. Immediately before planting seedlings, the ground is disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 10 liters of water) at the rate of up to 1.5 liters per well.

Seedlings are planted vertically, and the overgrown ones are planted obliquely according to the schemes of 30-40 × 40 cm (early ripe) and 40 × 50 cm (late).

About a week after planting, the plants are tied up: one end of the twine is fixed under the first sheet, then it is wrapped around the plant several times and fixed from above to the stretched wire.

Temperature regime for growing and caring for tomatoes in a greenhouse: during the day - 20-25 °С, at night - 16-18 °С.

It is watered not often, but plentifully (10 liters per 1 square meter), once a week, and during fruit filling - after 3-4 days with warm water.

Since tomato plants are self-pollinating, it is advisable to shake the bushes during the flowering period. It is necessary to regularly loosen the soil and hill the plants.

Plants are fed on average 2 times a month, alternating mineral and organic fertilizers.

First mineral supplement: 15-20 g of ammonium nitrate, 40-50 g of superphosphate, 15-20 g of potassium chloride per 1 bucket of water. At the second feeding, the dose is increased by 1.5, at the third - by 2 times.

organic top dressing- infusions of mullein, slurry, bird droppings (1:5; 1:5; 1-15).

In small-sized film shelters, as a rule, early-ripening varieties are grown.

The video clip "Growing tomatoes in a greenhouse" shows how to properly fertilize:

The site is dug up with the application of mineral and organic fertilizers, well leveled, ridges 140 cm wide, 20-25 cm high are formed. A furrow is made along the ridge in the center, into which manure or humus is embedded. A frame is constructed over the ridge, on which a plastic film is stretched. From the ends of the frame, the film is sprinkled with earth. On the one hand, it is better not to sprinkle - in this case, the film can be lifted to take care of the plants and ventilate. With the onset of stable warm weather, the shelter is removed. Planting and caring for plants are the same as in unprotected soil.

Plants of both unprotected and protected ground require shaping. The basic principle is that there should be 5-6 fruit clusters on the plant. Can be formed into one, two or three stems.

When forming into one stem on the main stem, the plants remove all the resulting stepchildren and leave 5-6 fruit clusters on it. A pinch is made over the 5-6th flower brush, leaving 2-3 leaves above it.

And how to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse, forming two stems? To do this, leave a stepson growing under the first flower brush. 4 fruit brushes are left on the main stem and the top is pinched, leaving 3 leaves; 3 fruit brushes are left on the stepson.

When forming into three stems (for unprotected soil), 2-3 fruit brushes are left on the main stem. On the two lower stepchildren, 2 fruit brushes are left and a pinch is made so that there are 2-3 leaves above the upper fruit brushes.

The video "How to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse" clearly demonstrates how to get a good harvest indoors:

Collection and storage of tomatoes

The first fruits in unheated greenhouses begin to be harvested in July. The main harvest and its processing are carried out in August, in September the harvest of grown tomatoes should be completed.

The collection of ripened fruits should be started after 4-5 days, and during the period of mass fruiting - after 3-4 days. Diseased and damaged fruits should be removed from the bushes so that they do not infect healthy ones.

All fruits should be harvested until the air temperature drops below 8 ° C, since fruits harvested at temperatures below 3-4 ° C will rot and ripen poorly.

It is most advisable to remove the fruits from the bushes brown and lay them for ripening, while the fruits remaining on the bush will pour faster. Before laying for ripening, the fruits must be warmed up without fail; to avoid blackening. To do this, the fruits are dipped for 2 minutes in water at a temperature of 60-65 ° C, then in cold water, after which they are wiped dry (without damaging the skin). Store tomatoes for accelerated ripening at a temperature of 18-20 ° C, laying in a container in 2-3 layers and removing the pedicels. Each box should contain a few well-ripened tomatoes. They release ethylene and green tomatoes will ripen faster.

Tomatoes harvested from young plants are best stored, the fruits of the last harvest are the worst stored. Ripened tomatoes are collected in a permanent container, since when shifting their delicate skin is easily damaged. Large fruits ripen faster than small ones.

Fruits of milky ripeness at a temperature of 10-12 ° C and a relative humidity of 80-85% can be stored for several months.

Brown fruits are stored at a temperature of 4-6 ° C and a relative humidity of 85-90%.

Pink fruits do not store very well.

Ripened fruits can be stored for about 30 days in a refrigerator at a temperature of 1-2 ° C and a relative humidity of 85-90%.

Green healthy fruits will last for a long time if each one is wrapped in paper and placed in a box with straw. The temperature in the room should be 10-14 °C.

Another storage method: simultaneously ripened tomatoes on the bush should be plucked along with the stem and hung on a rope in a cool room.

You can talk about tomatoes endlessly. Well, after potatoes, this is the second vegetable, and for many gardeners, even the first! In the article we will tell you how to grow tomatoes in your garden. The information will be useful for both beginners and experienced gardeners.

Changes are constantly taking place in the tomato world: new varieties and hybrids appear, super remedies for disease protection, methods are invented to increase yields.

What are tomatoes

The formation and placement of plants in the beds depends on the characteristics of the growth and development of varieties and hybrids. Distinguish:

  • indeterminate (liana) - with unlimited growth,
  • determinant (high) - with limited growth,
  • a variety of determinant-bush (superdeterminant) tomatoes.

creepers- most often not early. Their yield is long and uneven. Brushes are formed through two or three sheets. They are formed into one stem with a garter on a wire or trellis. Such varieties are suitable for greenhouses with long growing periods.

In determinate tomatoes brushes are formed through one or two leaves and the main stem is topped after the fifth or sixth brush. Formed in two or three stems and also tied to a support.

In bush tomatoes brushes are formed through the leaf. They are a small branched bush, and they can be formed into four stems, supported by stakes.

super kids characterized by early maturity and a friendly return of the crop. During the first three weeks of fruiting, 80-90% of all fruits ripen in them. Their cultivation is an ideal way out for gardeners from the northern regions and regions of Siberia, where summers are short and not hot.

The tomato clung to the Russian menu so tightly that only historians, erudite scholars and those for whom caring for tomatoes in the open field are, if not familiar, then certainly an annual matter, know about its South American origin. Specifically, we are talking about our dear and beloved gardeners. Someone who knows how to grow tomatoes. Or, at least, they think they know: despite the countless developments that breeders from all over the world have pleased us with for the past decades, the agricultural technology of growing tomatoes is worthy of further development.

How to grow tomatoes: basic requirements, nice features

Already after the colonization of Peru and Ecuador, when the South American "red berry" was delivered to Europe, the Spanish conquerors realized that growing tomatoes in the open field requires:

  • Nutritious soil substrate - turf, manure, peat;
  • Warm climate - plus 25-30°C;
  • Optimal watering - 2-3 times a week;
  • Good lighting - at least 12 hours a day.

The corresponding conditions are far from being the same as in Russia. But after all, the growing season of a tomato is only 3-4 months, which makes it possible to use the seedling method for growing tomatoes in open ground.

  • On a note!

According to the terms of fruit ripening from the moment of germination, tomato varieties are

  • early ripening (70-90 days),
  • mid-early (90-100 days),
  • mid-season (100-110),
  • mid-late (110-120 days),
  • late-ripening (120-140 days).

For open ground, the cultivation of tomatoes in the Leningrad region welcomes early-mid-early varieties, seedlings of which can be planted in June, knowing that the first "red garlands" will be tied at the beginning of the next month. Growing tomatoes in open ground in the Moscow region is not much different from the "Leningrad agricultural technology", but still allows the use of mid-season varieties. Accordingly, tomatoes for the Krasnodar Territory may already be late, because summer in the south of the country comes early. In Ukraine, the choice of tomato for open ground is similar to the previous one.

Pollination of tomatoes

The next pleasant moment is pollination. In tomatoes, fruits are formed from small yellow flowers growing in tassels. The tying of green "balls", which are then "baked" in the sun, occurs without the need for pollen transfer by insects. Accordingly, the question “how to pollinate tomatoes?” Is eliminated by default, which makes it possible to grow tomatoes at home and indoors, where bees and ants are extra guests. Another thing is when you have to plant cucumbers that have male (barren flowers) and female flowers. The pollen of the former must be delivered to the latter, so that the greens grow (although the so-called parthenocarpic hybrids of cucumbers are sold on the thematic market, which are self-pollinated).

A completely logical question arises: why do tomato inflorescences need pollen? The answer is banal: in order for the hero of the topic to self-pollinate. This is supported by:

  • Ventilation that inflates pollen;
  • Temperatures not higher than +30 °C, because the heat dries the inflorescences;
  • Moderate humidity (no more than 70%), because evaporation makes pollen sticky and unable to fly.

For this reason, outdoor cultivation of vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers guarantees a high level of pollination even without the participation of insects. The exception is periods accompanied by drought or frequent precipitation. The latter deserve special attention if the vegetable grower is going to grow tomato seedlings for open ground in the Moscow region. Then it makes sense to purchase resistant hybrids or even think about a “film” alternative.

Growing tomatoes at home: variety matters

Growing and caring for tomatoes can turn into a big harvest even in those regions where the ground temperature reaches + 22-25 ° C only on the eve of June. And it doesn’t matter at all if a person doesn’t have a land plot, but you really want tomatoes to always please the eye on the kitchen table: millions of vegetable growers around the world have already successfully experienced growing tomatoes at home. Not to say that this hobby stands out for its special agricultural technology, because many have achieved success without opening a single book on growing tomatoes. Simply, not as much product is placed on the window-sill balcony as in the greenhouse, not to mention the open ground. Accordingly, agricultural technology is simplified. The main thing is the use of special hybrid varieties marked "for the balcony":

  • "Balcony Miracle";
  • "Baby" from "Four Summer";
  • "Linda";
  • "Pinocchio";
  • "Cherry" etc.
  • On a note!

Undersized pinocchio, the cultivation of which does not take up much space, is distinguished by small fruits the size of Walnut. For pinocchio tomatoes to be sweet and tender, the ground must contain peat, soddy soil and ash (ratio 4:4:1). Top dressing - extremely complex and rare (once a month). Watering - warm and optimal (2-3 times a week). Long 14-hour light and 25-degree heat are welcome, as are other home grown varieties like cherry tomatoes, which, according to the label description, offer medium-early fruiting.

Those who like to plant tomatoes in hanging pots, who want to organize long lianas strewn with red clusters on the balcony, should definitely pay attention to ampelous tomatoes, the cultivation of which requires more space and lighting. It is difficult to satisfy these requirements, having a simple balcony-loggia. But after all, this category claims the title of "the most fruitful homemade tomatoes." Among the ampelous varieties of tomato, the following deserve special attention: "Citizen F1", "Cascade F1", "Talisman", "Garden Pearl", etc.

Variety selection for open ground

It is clear that window tomatoes are used for non-commercial purposes, that they do not bring the high yield that outdoor tomatoes can boast. On the other hand, the external environment, just like the home environment, calls for discovering some secrets of growing tomatoes, and the choice of variety is just one of them.

Already knowing that for planting a tomato it is necessary to be guided by the ripeness period, it remains to consider the following characteristics:

  • Height, type of branching;
  • Appearance of fruits;
  • Resistance to adverse factors.

Regarding the first point, tomatoes are undersized (up to 0.8) and tall (1.0-2.5 m). The first category is represented by the so-called. determinant varieties that have a thick and strong standard stem. This feature, coupled with a small growth, makes it possible to avoid the need to tie up tomatoes in the open field. Tomato bushes 1.0-2.5 m high are indeterminate varieties. Such tomatoes differ from determinant ones in the duration of branching-fruiting:

  • In determinant varieties, the ovary is formed above 3-6 leaves, ends - after the formation of 5-7 brushes. Accordingly, caring for tomatoes in the open field is not as long-term as caring for tall varieties, however, the crop has to be harvested less. Although determinant varieties develop mainly up to half a meter, there are also “productive dwarfs” among them. A prominent representative of this subcategory is the notorious "White filling 241".
  • Indeterminate varieties show the first ovary over 6-8 leaves, with each next going continuously, every 3-4 leaves. Therefore, such tomatoes can be grown all year round, without waiting for the next season, without using the conveyor method. For closed ground - an excellent choice.

On a note! With careful selection of tomato seeds, you can find the so-called. potato varieties. No, this is not the wonderful "TomTato" that was discussed earlier. In fact, the corresponding definition suggests that the tomato has foliage, like a potato crop. Moreover, in addition to the latter, “potato” tomatoes can be distinguished by decorative fruits. The following varieties belong to the corresponding category: "Betsy", "Vintage Wine", "Pink Brandy", etc.

Now about the “appearance”: today, in addition to the traditional “red balls”, tomato bushes, depending on the variety, can bear fruit with large cherries (for example, “Cherry”, “Baby”, “Linda”), plums (for example, “Bedouin”, “ Black Prince", "Gypsy") and even miniature pears (eg "Golden Pear"). Of course, such decorative tomatoes in the open ground in the Moscow region cause delight, but do not correspond to commercial qualities. Another thing is the varieties, the beds of which delight the eye with a record high yield of red fruits. These fruits are of medium size, which cannot be said about bull's heart tomatoes. Yes, such large-fruited tomatoes in the open field can cause a positive response from any experienced farmer, but tomatoes weighing half a kilogram do not fit well into bottles for preservation. Their place is salads, juices and ketchups.

Resistance to adverse factors is another important point that should not be overlooked when choosing tomato seeds for open ground. Among these factors are:

Drought;
Shadow;
frosts;
Diseases.

Varieties of tomatoes for Central Russia

And what to plant if the place of growth in the open air belongs to the Middle lane or the Trans-Urals? We propose to consider the features of the most stable, but fruitful traditional tomatoes in the following table:

Tomato name growing season Height Peculiarities yield
Alaska early ripe (85-100 days) up to 0.6 m Resistant to fusarium wilt, cladosporiosis, tobacco mosaic virus 9-11 kg/sq.m
White filling early ripe 85-100 days) up to 0.7 m Resistant to frost and fruit cracking 12-20 kg/sq.m
Pyshka F1 early ripe (85-100 days) up to 0.7 m Resistant to Fusarium wilt, VTM 8-10kg/sq.m
Renet ultra-early (60-70 days) up to 0.6 m Resistant to frost, shade, waterlogging 8-10 kg/sq.m
Severenok F1 early ripe (85-100 days up to 0.7 m Resistant to Fusarium wilt, VTM; excellent productivity with a lack of nutrition and water supply 5-8 kg/sq.m

"On a note! Usually at the same time early ripening, resistant and productive tomatoes are hybrids, labeled "F1" on the seed package. F1 octopus tomatoes are a vivid example of high-tech breeding: the plant reaches a height of 2.5 m or more (a real “tomato tree”), is resistant to high humidity, cold and heat. The yield of the "octopus" is 10-30 kg per square meter(!), but for planting tomatoes of this size, complex structures are needed that are rationally organized “under the film””

Sowing

Tomatoes are propagated by seeds and stepchildren (not to be confused with seedlings). The last method occurs after planting tomatoes under the open sky, when side trunks stick out from under the axils of the branches. They take a lot of energy from the mother bush, so stepping a tomato in the open field makes a lot of sense. To do this, you need to cut the stepchildren, root them in a warm solution of the Kornevin biostimulant, after which it is better to plant tomatoes immediately in open ground, because. they catch up with the mother bushes within one to two weeks. The main thing is that at the end of the stepson, by the time of transplantation, long white roots have time to sprout. Accordingly, soaking the shoots in the solution in order to root them lasts about one week.

"On a note! Pasynkovanie tomatoes in the open field allows you to multiply the number of bushes with a minimum number of seedlings. Moreover, in addition to the lateral processes, some vegetable growers stepchild the tops to form tomatoes into 2 stalks. This contributes to the yield of the bush by 50-100%. The tops are not thrown out, but rooted”

Growing a tomato from scratch, i.e. seed method, offers a choice between sowing seeds in a specific container for growing seedlings or open ground immediately.

The first method outperforms the latter due to the following features:

  • Providing an optimal microclimate until the end of spring frosts;
  • Ease of care for young seedlings, which are always under your nose;
  • Formation of a healthy bush, giving an early harvest;
  • Prevention of pests and diseases in the first two months of tomato development.

On the other hand, planting tomato seeds in the open is also not without advantages:

  • No restrictions on the allocation of space;
  • Hardening of a tomato at an early stage of development;
  • Excellent level of lighting and ventilation.

Be that as it may, it is recommended to soak the tomato seeds for a day in warm, settled water before sowing. If the water temperature is below + 10-12 ° C, then the seeds will be hardened. But with this approach, many cotyledon embryos can die without hatching, after which amateurs ask themselves: why did the good seeds not sprout?

In addition to soaking, tomato seeds can be “pickled” (disinfected) for one to two minutes in a one percent solution of potassium permanganate, and then rinsed with water. This method is recommended to be used if the seeds were collected from the tomato on their own, and the plant itself was repeatedly exposed to diseases. Shop products, rather, need to be soaked in a stimulant solution. The last one could be:

  • "Kornevin"
  • "Zircon"
  • Energen
  • "Epin Extra" and others.

The same preparations can be used for the first watering - immediately after the tomato seeds are immersed in the ground. In the absence of a stimulant, the soil must still be poured with warm water, and then covered with a transparent film to create a greenhouse effect. Usually, tomato seeds germinate 5-10 days after planting.

This is interesting

The question “how to grow a good tomato crop a month and a half earlier than usual?” periodically worries every vegetable grower. Only a few manage to achieve early production. To do this, agronomists acquire tall varieties of “red berries” and use the Chinese method of growing tomatoes, which begins with complex seed preparation: the first stage is a three-hour infusion of planting products in an ash solution (dissolve 2 tablespoons of “gray dust” in 1 liter of water) ; the second stage - washing the seeds and their 12-hour exposure in the Epin solution; the third stage is daily hardening in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator.

To find out what needs to be done after the germination of seedlings, growing tomatoes will help the video below. The corresponding video material also helps answer the question: how to form seedlings so that they turn out strong?

Seeding scheme

Another common question: how to plant tomatoes correctly so that as they grow older, their seedlings do not crowd and shade each other? The answer lies in the question itself: the sowing scheme is observed based on the prospects for the development of seedlings and their further diving - no more than 30 pcs. per sq.m. At the same time, the depth of laying each seed is 1 cm. For planting, it is rational to use both large boxes and individual pots with a depth of at least 10 cm. The latter are more suitable for long-term cultivation of seedlings - 40-60 days.

In order for the root system to quickly begin to form after the appearance of cotyledon leaves above the ground, the planting soil must be light, loose, nutritious, and optimal in terms of acidity. Ready-made soil for seedlings, sold in garden stores, as well as self-prepared substrate from peat, sod land, ash (4: 4: 1 ratio) can satisfy all requirements. If as planting material use yard soil, then the question “why do tomatoes grow poorly?” won't keep you waiting long.

  • On a note!

If tomato seeds are planted in open ground immediately, then it makes sense to dig holes up to 25 cm deep under the planting substrate. The ground is cold at the bottom of the holes, so it is recommended to cover them with sawdust by 3-5 cm, and then fill the corresponding layer with a strong solution of urea or saltpeter (5 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Nitrogen fertilizer is necessary in order to activate the “cushion” rotting process, so that with its sawdust it warms the ground, which often freezes through groundwater. If there is no decay, then dry shavings can only harm the substrate, reducing the content of useful nitrogen in it.

This recipe is also used when growing cherry tomatoes. True, in this case, the thickness of the layer at the bottom should be 0.5-1 cm. Accordingly, the volume of impregnation with a solution of urea should be minimal. Even better - use rotten shavings in advance.

seedling care

How to grow tomatoes after the mass appearance of sprouts? First you need to remove the film from the nursery, and put the containers in a well-lit and warm place. If this is not done, the seedlings will turn yellow from waterlogging and stretch.

"Jaundice" is also promoted by high acidity, lack-excess of nitrogen. Therefore, the presence of wood ash in peat is mandatory. This waste material not only alkalizes the "chernozem", it saturates it with potassium (K), which promotes flowering and fruiting. This benefit makes potash fertilizers for tomatoes in the open field are very relevant after transplanting seedlings.

Here I immediately want to note the role of other basic elements - nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P). The latter is responsible for the formation of the root system, the former is responsible for the aerial part, i.e. foliage and stem. Accordingly, these two elements are especially relevant in the first months of tomato development. Moreover, traditional phosphorus fertilizers (supefrosphate, bone meal) take a long time to decompose in the ground compared to nitrogen fertilizers (urea, saltpeter). This prompts vegetable growers to use bio-based instant complex fertilizers, which, in addition to the main “troika” (N, P, K), contain many micro and macro elements. There are many such fertilizers today:

  • "Agricola";
  • "Master";
  • "Kemira Lux";
  • "Baby";
  • "Crystal" from Fertica (tomato);
  • "Razvorin", etc.

Although seedlings are grown mainly indoors, and modern tomato varieties are resistant to a number of diseases, prevention is inevitable. In order for the seedlings to always look great and develop, they must be sprayed every two months with a fungicide:

  • "Quadris";
  • "Kuproksat";
  • "Metaxil";
  • "Thanos".

Folk remedies for feeding tomatoes

Expensive fertilizers and preparations can be replaced with products that are always nearby:

  • solution ammonia incredibly quickly saturates the soil with nitrogen;
  • a solution of hydrogen peroxide is good for pickling soil and tops;
  • eggshell nourishes the plant with calcium and phosphorus;
  • there is a lot of potassium in wood ash

The following table introduces the optimal microclimate and measures for caring for tomato seedlings, depending on their age:

open ground

After the seedlings have grown stronger, reached 20-25 cm in height, and maybe even bloomed, it's time to change its "place of residence". The choice of the latter in the open field largely depends on which vegetable grew a year earlier. If the predecessors of tomatoes are representatives of the Solanaceae family, then the earth probably managed to acquire thematic pests and pathogenic cells. Accordingly, growing tomatoes after potatoes and after pepper is highly discouraged. Moreover, nightshade crops should not be placed side by side: when pepper is planted next to tomatoes, the pollen of the crops mixes, which ultimately makes the tomato fruit taste bitter. It is possible to return other nightshade vegetables to the soil of the hero of the topic, provided that they have not grown in it for 3-4 years.

The question is, after what, what crops allow planting tomatoes next year? Ideally, a tomato grows after onions: onion vegetable phytoncides kill fungal bacteria and repel many pests. Therefore, the list of crops suitable for planting in the ground after onions is not limited to one tomato. It also provides:

  • Greenery;
  • Zucchini;
  • Cabbage;
  • Carrot;
  • cucumbers;
  • Pepper;
  • Radish;
  • Beet.

It does not matter if the onion did not grow anywhere before: carrots, cucumbers, radishes, and beets are also among the useful tomato precursors.

  • On a note!

To save space and scare away the "plague", onions can be planted next to the tomato. If only the latter does not shade his partner and does not take away a lot of moisture from him, so that the “cry-baby” does not go to the arrow (although the corresponding trouble is preceded by incorrect selection and storage of planting bulbs). Early ripening crops like radish greens are completely suitable for a quick “passing the baton” from the hands of the onion. But to the question “what can be planted after a tomato?” gardeners answer in chorus: "cucumbers!". Is it possible to plant onions, garlic, beets? Easy!

Growing tomatoes in a bag

Having received answers to the question of which crops it is desirable to plant after tomatoes, under tomatoes, you need to choose the technology for growing the tomato root system. How to grow tomatoes in open ground, if the temperature of the latter in conditions Middle lane and the Trans-Urals periodically freezes through, if the long tap root of the hero of the topic does not tolerate this freezing? To solve this problem, gardeners recommend growing tomatoes in bags that are filled with a nutrient substrate. The advantages of this method are obvious:

  1. Convenient agricultural technology;
  2. Possibility of quick replacement of planting soil;
  3. Low heat loss.

On a note! To minimize heat transfer between the earth and the bags, the latter should be placed on foam, cardboard sheets or sawdust. Tomato can also be grown in buckets. True, their depth leaves much to be desired, so growing tomatoes in a barrel is a better option.

The scheme of planting tomatoes in open ground

The next question is how far apart should tomatoes be planted? Well, here you have to be guided by the height of the variety.

The planting scheme for standard low-growing tomatoes allows small distances between bushes (0.4-0.5 m) and rows (0.7-0.8 m). When growing medium and tall varieties, the distance between tomatoes when planting in open ground should be maximum: between rows - 1.2 m, between bushes - 0.7-1.0 m. Keeping an appropriate distance, tied tomatoes:

  • They will not obscure each other;
  • Provide a convenient passage for care and harvesting;
  • They will please with uniform development, as well as a large harvest.

To tie up tomatoes in the open field, if they are indeterminate, you should start at a level of 0.5 m from the ground. Each subsequent garter occurs through a similar interval. Methods for tying tomatoes in the open field offer the organization of twine or trellis.

  • On a note!

Garter tomato in the open field can take place a month later, if you use the cultivation of tomatoes according to the method and method of Maslov when planting seedlings. It consists in burying most of the trunk so that roots come out of it, and the plant itself becomes powerful. Digging deep holes for such a thing is not worth it, because growing tomatoes according to the Maslova method and m tells you to place the trunk along the surface of the planting soil, and then drip it and water it. The top remains outside.

How to plant tomatoes lying down so that they do not break?

  1. Firstly, before laying, it is recommended to soak the seedlings in lukewarm water to give the stems flexibility;
  2. secondly, you need to use tall varieties

Compared to seedlings, grown-up tomatoes require more water and fertilizer to grow and care for outdoors. To minimize drying out of the soil and increase the intervals between waterings, it makes sense to arrange drip irrigation or mulch tomatoes. The last method is to cover the soil with a thick layer that will not allow moisture to evaporate. To create this layer, you can use:

  • Agrofibre;
  • straw;
  • Foliage of trees (not weeds).

Now about top dressing: mineral fertilizers like urea, it is better to apply a few months before sowing. For foliar dressings, i.e. for spraying, the previously mentioned complex fertilizers are suitable. As for "root nutrition", it should include organic matter. Tomatoes grow at an enviable rate if nettle, ash or mullein infusions are poured under their root every week. It is advisable to alternate all types of natural fertilizer.

FAQ

  • Question number 1: Is it possible to mulch the ground if the mulch is sawdust?

Answer: Yes, but provided that the chips are wet, i.e. managed to rot.

  • Question number 2: How to care for tomatoes in the open field, if there are big problems with water, and there are no funds for drip irrigation?

Answer: Use mulch, dig holes between the bushes for large plastic bottles. Create slots in the latter and cut into the ground, and then fill with water. The slots will allow water to flow slowly into the ground, which is characteristic of drip irrigation.

  • Question number 3: How to pinch tomatoes in the open field if they are undersized?

Answer: Some determinant varieties have strong standard stems that do not provide for the formation of processes from under the sinuses. If this happens, wait until they reach 10-15 cm so that the process of rooting them in the solution goes with a bang. Get detailed information on the topic will help pinching a tomato in the open field video:

  • Question #4: We planted tomatoes in poor soil. How to feed a vegetable with a mullein if the organic matter is fresh?

Answer: The mullein contains so many basic elements, especially nitrogen, that with an excess of it in solution, the fertilized plant can burn. Fresh cow manure should be infused for a week in water at a ratio of 1:1, and then diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20 before watering.

  • Question #5: Our seedlings often reach a height of one and a half meters, which complicates the harvest. How to tie up tomatoes to reach the "garlands"?

Answer: Dig in the root of seedlings when planting in open ground, try the Chinese method of growing tomato, which reduces growth. Also cut off the tops of meter bushes so that the lower trunks go into 2 stems. At the same time, the tops can be rooted and sown.

  • Question number 6: Every year we form potato beds, but with the invasion of moles we decided to switch to tomato. Solanaceae cannot be alternated every year. What should we do?

Answer: Grow tomatoes in bags, buckets.

  • Question number 7: How to properly tie up tomatoes if we have them growing in pairs?

Answer: Such tomatoes can be pulled on ropes stretching from above from the twine or tied to vertical poles if the variety is undersized.

The right choice of variety, seed preparation, careful care of seedlings, the search for alternative solutions for open ground - by observing the agrotechnics of tomatoes in the complex, you can achieve not only a large, but also an early harvest. Therefore, growing a tomato in late spring conditions seems difficult only at first glance.

When to plant tomatoes in open ground

The timing of planting tomatoes in the ground is very limited and varies not only in different regions of our country, but even in different areas. In open ground, tomatoes are usually planted between June 6 and 11. If in doubt when to plant - ask your neighbors who have been growing tomatoes for more than one year - they probably have their own experience when it is best to do this specifically in your area. In our Nizhny Novgorod region, we usually plant tomato seedlings on June 6-7. Until this time, the threat of frost on the soil remains. In the case of later frosts, you need to listen to the weather forecast in a timely manner and cover the tomatoes with film or lutrasil for the night. However, I have never done this myself - my beautifully hardened seedlings have endured light frosts more than once without any shelters.

How to prepare ridges for growing tomatoes

First, let me remind you once again that you can’t plant tomatoes where any nightshade crops have grown before - this can nullify all your efforts to grow seedlings and further care for plants. The best predecessors for tomatoes are legumes, root crops, green crops.

In open ground, a sunny place, protected from cold winds, is allocated for planting tomatoes. Unsuitable are low, damp areas, with a close standing of groundwater, which create unfavorable conditions for the root system of plants.

The tomato is less demanding on soil fertility and soil composition than other vegetable crops, but this does not mean that tomatoes can be planted in the ground without any fertilizer. The acidity of the soil should be at least ph = 5.5. Sandy and loamy soils need organic and mineral fertilizers and drainage. The need for nutrients changes during the growing season of tomatoes. In the first period (before fruit formation begins), plants use only 5-7% of the amount of fertilizer consumed. With the growth of green mass and especially the formation and growth of fruits, the consumption of nutrients increases sharply.

Tomatoes need all the necessary elements of mineral nutrition, but most of all potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. The lack of phosphorus reduces the absorption of nitrogen by plants, which leads to cessation of growth, delay in setting, formation and ripening of fruits. With mineral starvation, the leaves become blue-green in color, then grayish. Tomatoes are especially sensitive to a lack of phosphorus in the initial period of growth, so superphosphate is usually immediately added to the soil for planting a tomato.

Tomatoes, like other crops, need nitrogen during the period of intensive growth of plants and fruits. However, an excess of nitrogen in the soil is undesirable, since it causes a strong increase in green mass (the so-called "fatting") to the detriment of fruiting. In addition, this leads to an intensive accumulation of nitrates in the fruits.

Potassium is necessary for the formation of stems, eliminates the harmful effects of elements that increase the acidity of the soil, and improves the digestibility of other elements of mineral nutrition.

Based on this information, you can prepare the ideal soil for tomatoes. Humus, compost, rotted manure can serve as a source of nitrogen. It is desirable to lighten heavy loams with sand. In addition, for 1 sq. m contribute 2 tablespoons of superphosphate and 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate.

Before planting seedlings, the ridges are watered with a hot solution of potassium permanganate (at the rate of 1 g per 10 liters of water). Seedlings are planted vertically, filling only the pot with soil mixture. Hybrids and varieties of tall plants are planted in the middle of the beds in one row or in a checkerboard pattern 50-60 cm apart. After planting, the tomatoes are not watered for two weeks so that the plants do not stretch.

Pasynkovanie tomato

Starting from a young age, tomato plants form lateral shoots in the axils of the leaves - stepchildren. The removal of lateral shoots from tomatoes is carried out so that nutrients are not spent on excessive shoot formation and on the growth of fruits doomed to non-ripening. True, most early ripening varieties can be grown without pinching. For mid-season and late-ripening varieties, this operation is simply necessary. First of all, processes are removed from the axils of the leaves located below the first brush. These shoots as a whole lag behind in development from the main ones, they will not have time to give a crop, and the juices will be taken away.

After the first brush, the shoots are left in such a way that the bush, depending on the variety, grows into 2-4 trunks; the remaining stepchildren from top to bottom are systematically removed at least once every two weeks. You should not cut the shoots at the base - in a few days they will grow back. When removing the stepson, a “stump” of 1-2 cm is left.

Stepchildren should be removed when they have grown no higher than 3-5 cm, preventing them from outgrowing. If you pinch large stepchildren, then a wound remains on the stem and the plant is under stress.

When fruits begin to pour on the first inflorescence of tomatoes, all lower leaves, especially those that touch the soil, must be removed. By the time the fruits ripen on the first inflorescence, not a single leaf should remain down the stem. It is advisable to remove leaves and stepchildren in sunny weather in the morning, so that the wounds have time to heal.

Pollination of tomatoes

The yield of tomatoes largely depends on the number of fruit set. Tomatoes produce a large number of high-quality pollen suitable for pollination of own and neighboring flowers. But the quality of the pollination process is highly dependent on weather conditions. Temperature has the greatest influence on tomato pollination. At night temperatures below 13°C, the anthers are deformed, and the quality of the pollen is reduced. At high air temperatures (above 30-35°), ripened pollen grains lose their viability, fertilization does not occur, flowers fall off (such overheating most often happens in greenhouses - another reason why I prefer to grow tomatoes in open ground).

❧ To attract pollinating insects to beds, greenhouses and greenhouses, plant bright annuals between tomatoes - honey plants, for example, mustard, rapeseed, coriander, basil. It is believed that these crops also improve the taste of tomato fruits.

But even under suitable temperature conditions, it is advisable to “help” a little bit for the pollination of tomatoes. To do this, throughout the entire flowering period, you need to gently shake the plants every 2-3 days. This method helps to increase yields both on plants in the open field and on greenhouse tomatoes. Pollinate flowers during the day in warm sunny weather by lightly shaking the flower brushes. In order for pollen to germinate on the stigma of the pestle, it is necessary to water the soil immediately after shaking or spray it with water with a fine spray over the flowers.

How to properly water tomatoes

It is enough to water early-ripening varieties of tomatoes only four times: at planting, 7-10 days after planting (watering should be plentiful), at the beginning of July and, finally, after July 20th. Large-fruited varieties need to be watered more often and, depending on the weather, in a drought in 2-3 days. After watering, be sure to loosen. You can dig grooves between the rows of tomatoes and fill them with water. It is useful to close the aisles with weeded or cut grass and water over it. The water temperature should be 20-22 °C. In no case do not water the tomatoes with unsettled tap water, and even more so taken from a well or well. In the garden, there must be a large-volume tank where the water is heated to the desired temperature and it is settled for the precipitation of salts.

Watering tomatoes, like other crops, is better in the evening.

Remember that waterlogged soil, especially during the fruiting period, reduces the content of solids and sugar in tomato fruits, they become sour and watery, and their fleshiness also decreases.

Feed for tomatoes. When should you feed your tomatoes?

Feed tomatoes based on their growing cycle. We have already said that in the early stages of development, plants need nitrogen fertilizers. If you have properly prepared the soil for seedlings and the soil on the ridges, then additional nitrogen fertilizing can be minimal. For example, a single watering with a solution of chicken manure, a fermented infusion of grass, well-diluted slurry.

If your plants grow too fast, have powerful stems and large, juicy, dark green leaves, they are most likely "fatty" from excess nitrogen. You can correct the situation by temporarily stopping watering the plants, raising the temperature of the content and applying phosphate fertilizers (3 tablespoons of superphosphate per 10 liters of water).

Before flowering, the plant needs increased doses of phosphate fertilizers, which are applied to the soil in advance. If, when preparing the ridges, you neglected the introduction of phosphorus, then you can do this already during the flowering period in the form of foliar top dressing.

At the height of flowering, top dressing with ash is appropriate (1-2 cups of ash per bucket of water, leave for a day, spray on the color and leaves in the evening). This procedure, among other things, contributes to the prevention of diseases of tomatoes.

How to harvest tomatoes

In early August, all flowers and newly formed ovaries should be removed from the bushes in the open field, and especially in late-ripening varieties because they won't mature anyway. In the greenhouse, this is done 1-2 weeks later. The tops of indeterminate plants must be pinched to stop growth, while nutrients will rush to the ripening of the fruit. It is best to shoot brown (beginning to turn red) fruits, which have 4-6 days before ripening. If you regularly harvest just such fruits, then the total yield will increase significantly, since the remaining fruits will receive more nutrition and develop faster. On the contrary, with overripe fruits, the total yield decreases.