We believe that FORUMHOUSE users will agree with the statement that a competent approach to the ventilation system is as follows - first of all, it is necessary to calculate the air exchange, then, based on these data, select the required cross section of the air ducts. And only after that it is possible to draw up a scheme for the ventilation of the cottage, and determine the installation location of ventilation equipment.
Types and features
According to the user our portal (nickname on the forumpetrovk, Moscow) ventilation in the house can be divided into three types:
- natural;
- Supply, or as it is also called, mechanical;
- Air handling unit with heat recovery.
petrovk:
– When designing a ventilation system, the following principle should be followed – the air in the house should be completely updated in 1 hour. For my frame house of 200 m2, I settled on a flow and exhaust unit with heat recovery. The installation is selected based on the number of air cubes in the house, I have 600, I took the installation for 700 cubes.
It should be remembered that a comfortable environment in the house is created not only due to the intake of fresh air, but also due to the speed of air flow. Supply- exhaust ventilation due to the presence of a fan in it, it creates a greater air flow than natural ventilation.
When mechanical ventilation is operating, the air velocity in the ventilation system is on average 3-5 m3/hour, and with natural ventilation it is about 1 m3/hour. Let's try to figure out whether natural ventilation creates a more comfortable environment in the house. This question is not as simple as it seems. Indeed, in order to pass the same volume of air through a mechanical and natural ventilation system, a different section of the ventilation duct is required. This means that the installation of natural ventilation will entail an increase in the cross section of the channel, which is far from always possible from a technical or aesthetic point of view.
With any type of ventilation - whether it is natural or mechanical, it is necessary to ensure the unhindered movement of air throughout the house.
One option is to install doors with overflow grating in the rooms or leave a small gap between the door and the floor. For the proper organization of air flow, it is necessary that the air intake be carried out in the cleanest room, living room or bedroom, and the output should be carried out in the kitchen or in the bathroom.
In the kitchen, above the stove, the hood should go in a separate channel. If the hood is forced, then the kitchen and bathroom can be combined with one ventilation duct. The diameter from inlet to outlet must not decrease. Due to the specifics of the kitchen hood, the air duct from it is always made round, galvanized and vertical, without knees. Do not use corrugated, aluminum or plastic air duct.
Our Forum AdvisorElena Gorbunova(nickname on the forum Matilda ):
– Natural ventilation works with a pressure difference at the inlet and outlet. The entrance is an exhaust valve, it is placed in the ceiling of the room or in the wall under the ceiling. The exit is the top of the pipe. The drop starts at 10 meters. The pressure difference also depends on the temperature difference. It is better in winter and worse in summer.
A natural inflow is made above the heating devices, which are usually located under the windows. Or two meters above the floor.
The question often arises
Is it possible to combine the ventilation ducts of the kitchen, bathroom and boiler room into a single system, then install a duct fan, and bring everything through the roof with one pipe.
Our forum user Vladimir(nickname on the forum Careless Angel ) thinks that:
- In no case should you combine the exhaust from the sewer, then the whole house will stink like a toilet, regardless of whether an air duct is installed in front of the fan or after.
Also of great importance is the material from which the ventilation ducts for a private house are made. One of the best options is the use of spiral wound galvanized air ducts. But with self-assembly, developers massively use ventilation ducts made from a sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.
Matilda
:
– Sewer pipes must not be used. In general, plastic should not be used for air ducts, unless these are special antistatic pipes. In this case, the dust will stick to the walls. In addition, sewer pipes have a small diameter. And the thrust directly depends on the diameter of the duct and the height difference. The difference in the cottages is quite small - this is not a high-rise building for you. This means that with a small diameter, there will be practically no traction, especially in summer. And if you put a fan, then the sewer pipes will make a very unpleasant sound when the air moves.
air ducts for ventilation for private homes - requirements and features
In order for the ventilation system to work with maximum efficiency, it is necessary that the inner surface of the duct provide minimal resistance to air movement. Let's see how to choose the right one V air ducts to ventilate your home.
Matilda :
- The main task
ducting is to allow air to move freely from the point of air intake to the point of its outlet. And be safe from the point of view of ecology and fire safety. Any loss of pressure greatly affects or negates the air exchange during natural ventilation. Pressure losses occur from uneven duct surfaces, horizontal sections, elbows, tees, etc. With a rectangular duct, the losses are higher than with a round one, and dust accumulates in them well.
Flexible - corrugated duct provides the greatest air resistance. And it is best used when you need to make a turn or attach a kitchen hood to the ventilation duct.
Very often, developers, for various reasons, do not want to make a conclusion through the roof, preferring to bring the ventilation duct through the wall. It is not right.
Matilda
:
– Never, under any circumstances, vent through a wall. ruin the facade.
In a couple of years there will be a visible spot on the wall around the exit.
And it is also pointless to remove natural ventilation, since there will be absolutely no height difference, and, accordingly, pressure.
If, with a forced ventilation system, all air ducts are connected by elbows and adapters with one vertical duct, then it is recommended to install an E190P fan on the roof.
To control this fan, in a convenient place is placed thyristor regulator speed. And the air ducts themselves are taken with a diameter of 125 mm.
On FORUMHOUSE you will find an article about, a lot of useful information, a fascinating discussionchoice A after reading our video, youyou will be able to clearly see how an integrated approach to the ventilation device allows not only to provide the house with fresh air, but also save money.
Plastic windows, armored doors, on the one hand, maintain the desired temperature in the premises, and on the other hand, they cause problems with air exchange. A well-arranged hood in a private house will relieve the feeling of mustiness and condensation. In most cases, this is the only way to create a healthy microclimate in it.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the options for exhaust devices that can improve the microclimate. Together with you, we analyze the production of calculations using a specific example. We have described in detail the process of installing a forced version of the hood for those who want to do the installation themselves.
The information provided is based on regulatory requirements. The information is complemented by illustrations, step-by-step photo guides, diagrams, tables and videos.
Both in public buildings and in private homes, they use different types ventilation systems. They differ in purpose, in the way of activating the air flow and moving air masses. , designed to supply clean air to the house, is called supply air.
The design, the function of which is to remove the exhaust air outside the room, is called exhaust. A special mission is carried out by ventilation with recirculation. In this case, a part of the air removed from the room is mixed with cold outdoor air masses with further heating of this mixture to the set temperature and its return to the room.
Air movement occurs as a result of processes that occur naturally due to the displacement of cold air, which has a greater volumetric weight, heated air, with a lighter weight, from the room.
The flow in such a system moves at a low speed, since the weight of the warm and cold masses differs by a small amount. it is irrational to use ventilation with a natural impulse if its horizontal length exceeds 8 m.
More efficient is a system with artificial activation of the air flow, provided by the operation of the fans. The air ducts in this case are long and can pass through several rooms. Elements of the system are most often placed in the attic. This option is justified for buildings of a large area.
There is a division into channel and non-channel systems. In the first case, air moves through channels and air ducts, in the second, there is no organized air movement. In this case, you have to open window transoms, doors. Natural ventilation creates more comfortable conditions for the residents of the house.
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The ventilation system, focused on the removal of the exhaust air mass, frees up space for the entry of fresh air
According to the method of exhaust air removal, exhaust ventilation schemes are divided into duct and non-duct
According to the type of inducing air flow to move, ventilation systems are natural, forced and combined. In natural variants, air moves without the use of mechanical means, in combined ones, mechanical means and the laws of physics are used.
In forced versions of the exhaust ventilation device, air is removed due to the operation of a suction fan installed in the exhaust duct.
A powerful supply and exhaust system is usually located in the attic of the house. Air ducts are protected with foil insulation
Forced exhaust systems are mainly equipped with rooms with unstable indicators of humidity and temperature. In kitchens, they are more than appropriate.
The exhaust fan in the bathroom will provide a quick decrease in humidity, which will eliminate the appearance of mold and protect building structures with finishes from destruction.
The hood from the basement will provide a stable strength of the foundation, will allow the use of underground rooms
Exhaust ventilation system
Air duct of duct exhaust system
Natural ventilation of a private house
Extractor fan in the bathroom
Exhaust system in the attic
Hood in the kitchen in a country house
Exhaust fan in the bathroom
Exhaust pipe from the basement
Necessary preliminary calculations
The initial parameter in the calculation is the volume of air removed and supplied to the room. There is more than one method, but in the most used, sanitary standards and the area of \u200b\u200bthe room are taken as a basis.
According to the requirement of the first, it is necessary to build on the fact that the need for air in m 3 / h. for one person who spends most of the time in the house, depends on the purpose of the room:
- living room - 40;
- bedroom - 20;
- kitchen - 60;
- bathroom - 25.
Based on the second criterion, they proceed from the following regulatory requirement: 3 m 3 of replacement air must fall on 1 m² of living space. When calculating the cross-section of air ducts, they are guided by the fact that the optimal value of the air velocity in the central duct is 5 m/s, and in the side duct - a maximum of 3 m/s.
You can independently determine the diameter of the pipe by the formula:
S = L/3600/v,
where L - performance, measured in m 3 / h, v - air speed in m / s.
Data on air consumption depending on the cross section of the duct are summarized in the table.
The aerodynamic resistance of an air duct with a cross section in the form of a circle is less than with a square one. The square shape is more compact, organically fits into the interior of the room, has a large size range
Air ducts are made of metal, plastic, aluminum foil, polyester. The last two are flexible systems. They have good noise and heat insulation characteristics and they are the best suited for a private house.
Natural air exchange in the house
Natural air exchange is based on the property of gaseous and part of liquid substances with a higher temperature to rise up. So the exhaust air naturally is removed from the room through a vertically located exhaust duct, simultaneously drawing in outside air through the supply ducts.
Natural ventilation does not always provide comfort in the house. Often a mixed version is used, when, in addition to the natural movement of air, fans are also used (+)
The inefficiency of supply ventilation is indicated by excess moisture in the room during cold weather or increased dryness in warm weather. The presence of a large amount of dust, lack of oxygen - these are also signs of insufficient air flow from the outside.
The consequence of poor exhaust is under the wallpaper, in the bathroom, soot settling on the kitchen walls, misted windows.
Checking the operation of the hood is easy. It is enough to bring a sheet of paper to the ventilation grille. With good traction, it will bend towards the ventilation duct, otherwise nothing will happen. It should be concluded that the hood is clogged with something and the channel must be cleaned to ensure traction.
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The effectiveness of natural ventilation directly depends on the condition of the ventilation grilles and ducts. Normal air movement must not be obstructed by dust and grease deposits
To check the operation of the hood of a natural system, it is enough to attach a sheet of paper to the grate. If it is not pressed by the air flow, the exhaust duct does not work.
If there are doubts about folk remedies, you should contact the management company to check the system with technical means
To obtain reliable readings, measurements should be taken on a cool day. At this time, it is necessary to open the vents for air intake.
Dirty ventilation grill
Clogged duct indicator
Technical verification of ventilation operation
Conditions for control
To provide a private house with good ventilation, you need to start by calculating the air exchange. According to its results, the section of the channels, the type of ventilation system are selected and a draft version of the ventilation scheme is made, where the places of passage of air ducts and the installation of ventilation equipment, the points of intake and output of air mass are indicated.
Private houses are mainly located outside the city, where the air, unlike the city, is cleaner and there is no need for additional purification. Therefore, natural ventilation for a private house is preferable.
A big obstacle to the entry of fresh air are plastic windows in which there are no gaps, and the glass is very tight to the frames.
Outlet in the supply valve installation. It is located on the upper frame, so the air coming from the street goes under the ceiling and only after mixing with conventional flows and acquiring room temperature does it go down.
The location of the elements of the exhaust system should ensure the passage of the air flow covering the entire house in the direction from the “clean” rooms to those where the air is most susceptible to pollution.
According to this rule, in rooms with special conditions, which include boiler rooms, kitchens with a gas stove, basements, rooms with fireplaces and speakers, toilets, the presence of an exhaust hood is mandatory. Valves are also needed in these rooms.
The design features of the supply valve allow you to ventilate the room without creating drafts and without reducing the performance of the window. In this case, condensation does not form. Slot type valve, as in the photo, can be installed on an existing window unit
There are ventilation valves installed on the wall. This branch pipe with a circular cross section is inserted into a through hole in the wall and closed with bars both from the inside and from the outside.
As a rule, a wall supply fan can supply 50-100 mᶾ of air per hour to the house. Based on this norm and after performing the appropriate calculation, they select their optimal number
The grate located inside can be adjusted - open and close completely or partially. When installing, give preference to a place near the window. Sometimes the supply valve is mounted behind the radiator and then the incoming air immediately heats up.
Requirements for ventilation of a private house
Sanitary and technical standards put forward a number of requirements for the aircraft. When deciding how to make an effective hood in a private house, all points must be taken into account:
- The inner walls of the channels must be smooth. To ensure this condition, round or rectangular air ducts of constant cross section are inserted into them.
- The ventilation riser in the lower part is equipped with an inspection door. It must be hermetically sealed.
- The exhaust duct is led to the roof with a minimum elevation of 1.5 m above it. If the roof has a broken shape, then in order to avoid the occurrence of reverse thrust caused by the turbulence of the flows, a deflector is installed in the exhaust duct.
- Ventilation shaft device. If initially the ventilation system in the building was not provided, an attached shaft is attached to one of the walls. To improve traction, it must be insulated.
- Compliance with the rules of the organization of ventilation. It is impossible to combine a mechanical kitchen hood with a common sun. A separate channel is arranged for her, otherwise there will be problems with the functioning of natural draft in other rooms of the house.
- The maximum allowable distance from the ceiling to the top of the ventilation grilles is 150 mm. With an increase in this distance, air stagnation zones will occur.
Doors separating adjacent rooms, even when closed, should not impede the flow of air.
The best solution is to purchase a door with a special decorative grille at the bottom. If a solid door is installed, a gap of at least 2 cm is left between the floor and the door leaf, or a series of holes are drilled at the bottom.
The essence of the basic requirement is that the volume of air to be removed must be equal to the amount of incoming air. If this rule is not observed, then various unpleasant odors will penetrate into the room along with the air. With a large imbalance between the volume of incoming air and the exhaust, drafts will appear.
Union of ventilation with recirculation
Recirculation is called SV, when the air removed from the room is returned back through the inflow with an admixture of fresh air. The disadvantage is that its use is limited by SNiP, and in regions with a cold climate it does not work very efficiently. Its action is limited to one room.
Recirculation allows you to save on electricity consumption due to the fact that power is spent only on heating a small amount of air mass taken from the street
The scheme of the recirculation system can be turned into an ordinary one by closing the recirculation valve and fully opening the supply and exhaust. If you do the opposite, then the system begins to drive the air in a circle.
When the supply and exhaust dampers are only partially open, fresh outside air will be added. By adjusting the degree of opening, they optimize the flow of elements that ensure comfortable life.
Installation of forced exhaust of a private house
Forced air exchange in comparison with natural one wins in many respects:
- It works regardless of the weather.
- Cleans the air more effectively.
- It is possible to adjust the rotation speed and power of the fans.
- The air flow can be set in motion not only with the help of a duct fan, but also by using monoblocks, which are easy to install.
The main disadvantages are dependence on power supply and the need for periodic replacement of individual elements. There are several mechanisms for forced ventilation.
It can be a single supply and exhaust unit, a set-up system, exhaust, duct air conditioner. The most effective is the supply and exhaust SV. The design includes a fan, automation, sensors, filters.
The distribution of cold air in the room during the operation of the supply and exhaust ventilation is prevented by a special damper located in the housing
Forced exhaust as standard has a single fan and is designed for small rooms. In the type-setting RV, the equipment is the same, but it is placed separately. The capacity of the system is in the range of 80-7,000 m 3 /h.
In buildings with a large area, it is necessary to install hoods with a capacity of 350 to 500 m 3 / h.
The technology of mounting the hood in the kitchen
The hood in the kitchen is usually placed above the stove. It is necessary that the exhaust hood protrude beyond the plate by 100-150 mm.
The performance is chosen with a focus on the parameters of the room using the formula:
P = S x H x 12
Where the first character indicates the power of the second - the area of the third - the height of the kitchen.
Depending on the method of installation, kitchen hoods are suspended, wall-mounted, island, built-in, and according to the type of operation, circulation and supply
Air ducts usually run in an indirect path, which can reduce the exhaust power. For a guarantee, 30% is added to the value obtained as a result of the calculation. The installation technology is simple, therefore, having understood the scheme, you can do all the work yourself.
When there is no built-in BC. then first make a hole in the wall, coinciding in diameter with the cross section of the exhaust pipe. If this recommendation is neglected, the work will be accompanied by increased noise, and the air will come out at a slower speed.
The structure itself is located at the station at least 0.7 m from the surface of the electric stove and 0.8 m from the gas stove.
The next step is marking the mount. Sometimes a template is included in the hood kit, but if it is not available, you can use the level and tape measure. Next, fix the exhaust hood, keeping horizontal.
The structure is connected to the previously made outlet, connected to the mains and tested. If the house has a gas water heater, then the ventilation pipe can be led into the chimney of the boiler or heating stove.
The following photo selection will demonstrate the installation process of a kitchen hood with a masking dome:
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In order to bring the exhaust duct to the street, we drill a wall. First we use a nozzle for drilling tiles, then a drill for brick and concrete walls
For the device of the exhaust duct, we will use a corrugated pipe. We try it on the installation site, if necessary, modify the hole
In fact, we mark the attachment points of the dome, with which we will mask the exhaust device with an air duct
We install dowels into the holes drilled according to the marking, into which we twist the screws
We cut the corrugated exhaust channel in accordance with the required dimensions. Cut with regular scissors
We attach the camouflage dome to the place of its future location, check the horizontals with verticals and the length of the corrugation
We connect the hood inside the dome to the exhaust duct. At first we slightly compress the corrugation so that it then fits snugly, having straightened out in the hole
We connect the hood to the mains and check its performance by attaching a piece of paper to the working area
Step 1: Drilling a hole for the duct outlet
Step 2: Fitting the corrugation to the installation site
Step 3: Marking and Arrangement of Attachment Points
Step 4: Screw in the fixing screws
Step 5: Cutting the corrugations to actual dimensions
Step 6: Fitting the dome to the location
Step 7: Connecting the extractor to the duct
Step 8: Checking the operation of the exhaust system
Forced extraction of the bathroom of a private house
In the bathroom for forced ventilation, exhaust fans are installed that operate in a humid environment:
- supply power to the room and install an outlet;
- a hole is made in the wall corresponding to the cross section of the fan coupling;
- the sleeve is placed in the hole;
- drill mounting holes;
- connect the cable;
- removing the front panel from the fan, attach the latter to the wall;
- return the removed panel to its place;
- outside attach the grill.
It is advisable to use such a system in a bathroom located on the second floor. Usually, the SV of this room with the obligatory presence of a ventilation shaft is included in the project. Air flow is carried out through the gap between the floor and the door, as well as through the vents.
MARLEY is a comfortable microclimate in your home. No moisture, no mold.
The Marley MEnV 180 recuperator completely renews the air in the room approximately every two hours. Moreover, in the cold it is heated air, and in the heat it is cooled (if the room is air-conditioned).
The ceramic element of the heat exchanger prevents the air from drying out in the room and provides a comfortable indoor microclimate.
The installation kit includes an insulated casing, which prevents the heat exchanger from freezing or the appearance of condensate at temperatures up to -30.
One MARLEY MEnV 180 heat exchanger:
The warm used air is expelled from the room to the outside within 70 seconds and heats up the ceramic element in the process. After that, the device changes the direction of the air supply: now fresh air from outside enters the room and is heated at the same time due to the heat accumulated in the ceramic element.
Two MARLEY MEnV 180 heat exchangers:
While one device supplies fresh air, another device exhausts the warm used air to the outside. In this case, the thermal energy of the used air is accumulated in the ceramic element of the heat exchanger. After 70 seconds the fans change direction. Both devices communicate with each other via radio communication.
The use of two synchronously operating recuperators is recommended for bedrooms, offices, kindergartens and medical institutions. This solution is often used for ventilation of large rooms.
Advantages of the Marley heat exchanger
Device and principle of operation
- Protective outer casing IPX4 from moisture, precipitation and insects, made in a modern design, resistant to ultraviolet radiation, protects the wall of the house from damaging appearance traces of moisture.
- Fan for continuous operation, maintenance-free with three performance modes.
- Class filter element G4 or G3.
- Insulated casing of the heat exchanger.
- Heat exchanger housing, adjustable depending on the thickness of the wall.
- Decorative panel with main switch.
- Ceramic element of the heat exchanger. The extremely high surface area of the ceramic honeycomb allows pick-up and drop-off a large number of heat from the air passing through the element in a short time.
- Remote control
- Adjustable ventilation performance settings.
- ON/OFF switch
- Summer ventilation mode with the ability to synchronize the operation of a pair of devices.
About the manufacturer
Forward with Marley- with this motto, the company addresses home craftsmen and everyone who does housework with their own hands. For more than 50 years, the company has been providing them with its products for construction and renovation. Quality, functionality and design have made the Marley brand the definition of high quality and tailored products for the home. Constant quality control and certification according to DIN ISO 9001 guarantee the reliable quality of work processes and products. The range of the company is optimally matched to the needs of home craftsmen and offers solutions for numerous projects related to construction and renovation. Installation of products is simple and fast.
Marley products impress with their quality: high-quality materials, meticulous workmanship and modern design. They comply with the requirements and regulations regulated by various countries and are available in all major construction markets. Marley has manufacturing facilities in Germany and Hungary and is part of the global ALIAXIS Group.
A properly built ventilation system of a private house is a process not due to a whim and a desire to comply with the norms and trends of a modern home, but an extremely necessary procedure to maintain the climate balance. Complexity plays a special role here: it is not enough to arrange ventilation in the kitchen and in the bathroom (as many do). Every room in the house needs ventilation.
Insufficient air circulation between the room and the street can lead to air stagnation, the formation of fungus and mold, and allergic reactions, heaviness throughout the body and poor health will become dubious “bonuses” in a room without ventilation.
The main types used in private homes are natural and forced, distinctive features which are - the use (forced) of additional equipment, or ventilation using physical processes (natural).
Advantages and disadvantages of natural ventilation
The main advantage of natural ventilation is the simplicity and low cost of building a system, while forced ventilation boasts more efficient and high-quality work.
Along with a number of undeniable advantages - cheapness, ease of implementation - natural ventilation also has disadvantages, which, by the way, are significant. Many construction professionals talk about the inefficiency of such a system, and here's why:
- According to building codes, the permissible temperature on the street should not be lower than +5 degrees, otherwise the draft will increase and a large amount of cold air will begin to enter the house. According to some reports, heat losses from natural ventilation in some cases reach 40% of the total volume.
- The situation is diametrically opposite to the previous paragraph: if it is too hot outside, air exchange is minimized until the air circulation stops completely.
- There is no way to process the air coming from the street. The ecological situation in the country and in the world leaves much to be desired. Clean air is more of a luxury than a daily routine. Untreated and untreated air can cause many troubles.
- The ventilation in the room has a limited adjustment. If it is still possible to reduce air exchange by tightly closing windows and doors, then it is no longer possible to significantly increase it.
Air conditioning is a must
To create an effective atmosphere in the rooms of a private house, it is necessary to resort to complexity: the best option would be a combination of natural circulation with technological developments in this area (fans, filters, etc.).
Why do you need a hood in a private house with a stove or fireplace
If a stove or fireplace is used in the house not as an element of decor, but perform their direct duties - they heat the room, you need to take care of double natural ventilation. For complete combustion of the fuel, a sufficient amount of oxidizing agent (in this case, oxygen) is necessary. With its shortage, the fuel will not burn completely, while releasing carbon monoxide, which will enter the living quarters. Pleasant and useful in this, of course, is not enough.
Ventilation device in a house with a fireplace
If there is not enough air flow, then in the warm season you can open the window - this will be enough. In winter, such a trick is unlikely to pass, therefore, even at the construction stage, it is advisable to run a pipe under the floor directly to or a fireplace, through which the required amount of air will flow.
To organize the hood, they most often resort to the services of experts, this article is aimed at craftsmen who plan to do the installation with their own hands. Next, we consider the main recommendations for the construction of such ventilation, often occurring problems and shortcomings.
How to make a natural ventilation system with your own hands
Natural ventilation works based on physical laws - due to the difference between warm air in the room and cold air outside (warm air is lighter) and also on the difference in pressure. Based on this, they came up with a simple design that is quite simple to make in a private house: in the center of the future dwelling, most often in a load-bearing wall, a channel with a cross section of about 130–140 mm is laid. Horizontal branches with a diameter of 100–100 mm are drawn from it to the rooms of the house.
Scheme and device of a system with a ventilation duct
Ventilation system device
Correct installation
Ventilation duct in the wall
To organize the wiring use. Then physics comes into play - warmer room air is pulled out under pressure and due to the force of draft, colder street air enters the rooms through specially made channels, or naturally (doorways, open windows, etc.).
Placement of supply channels in the wall
- The wall thickness of the exhaust duct must be at least one and a half bricks. Otherwise, the air in it will quickly cool and the reverse process will occur - the air will not be drawn out, but will enter the rooms.
- The pipe at the outlet of the exhaust duct on the roof must be higher than the ridge. Otherwise, roof turbulence will interfere with the normal operation of the traction.
Taking the system outside
The main flow channel, as described above, is done in a standard way. But the influx of fresh air coming from the street can be organized in two ways - either to make flow channels in the window sills, or gaps in the windows. When choosing the second method, it is better to use metal-plastic windows, which have one competitive advantage over wooden ones - an increased level of sound insulation. These measures will be enough to ventilate the premises of the house to the required extent.
Fresh air is essential
If we talk about the advantage of using natural ventilation over forced ventilation (filters, radiators, etc.), we need to focus on two points - noise and air frequency.
Natural ventilation does not imply the presence of additional equipment (at least you can do without it). And this means that there will be no extraneous noise from working fans and radiators in the house.
Many people, when installing air cleaning filters, forget that they require constant replacement. After prolonged use, the filter becomes dirty and the air passing through it is not cleaned, but is supplied with an additional dose of dust and other substances that make it even more polluted. It is not necessary to control air exchange during natural ventilation - especially since some of the large particles that come into the house from the street, along with the air, settle on the windowsills, where they can be easily removed with a damp cloth. And if we assume that wet cleaning is carried out in the house regularly, then this should not cause any additional inconvenience.
Video: how to arrange a natural hood
Do not forget about the air conditioning system. A well-organized tandem of natural, forced ventilation and air conditioning will make life in the house comfortable and safe for health.
Good air circulation plays an important role in ensuring a comfortable stay for people in a living space. Therefore, even at the initial stage of construction design, it is necessary to consider how to arrange the ventilation of a detached residential building. A well-mounted hood in a private house will ensure timely removal unpleasant odors and excess moisture from all interior rooms.
Types of ventilation systems
How to make a hood in a private house can be correctly understood by having information about ventilation systems, how to install them, as well as having the skills and knowledge of the basics of construction and electrical installation.
According to the principle of operation, ventilation in the room is divided into natural and forced. By design, the hood in the house can be channel and channelless, the difference between which is due to the use of special ventilation ducts (ducts, pipes) in the system.
natural ventilation
This system works due to the natural air draft that occurs between the supply and exhaust ducts. Fresh air flow enters the house:
- through unsealed building structures
- window vents
- ajar doorways
- special inlet wall valves
The outflow of exhaust air occurs through a system of exhaust ducts.
Ventilation ducts end outside the territory of the building:
- on the roof
- attic
- through the walls
The flow of new air masses goes through the living rooms, where the air is the cleanest in the house; the outflow occurs through utility and technical premises: kitchen, bathroom, toilet, boiler room, basement, where the concentration of moisture and pollution is maximum.
With a small temperature difference environment and the interior of a private house (at least 12 degrees), the hood deteriorates and the effect of the natural ventilation system is greatly reduced.
Ways to improve natural ventilation
To increase the efficiency of air exchange without the use of additional mechanical devices, it is necessary to increase the infiltration or ventilation of the living space.
Air infiltration - the minimum penetration of air flow through the cracks of window sashes, window blocks and openings, doors and doorways, through walls. To improve infiltration it is necessary:
- Use in construction materials with breathable properties (wood, adobe, porous blocks, ceramics).
- The windows of the building can be used plastic, but with the presence of infiltration valves.
- Mount supply valves in the walls for fresh air intake (near the window or closer to the heating radiators).
| Types of ventilation | Air renewal time | Action |
| Ajar windows | more than 1 hour |
|
| Short-term ventilation with an open window | 7 - 8 minutes |
|
| Wide open windows and doors | 3 minutes |
|
Forced ventilation
Air exchange between the interior and the street, unlike natural ventilation, is provided by mechanical devices: fans or monoblocks (2 fans in a single system). Forced air circulation is controlled by the capacity of the fans.
The fan reduces the density of air in the house, drawing part of it into the ventilation duct, at the inlet of which it is installed. As a result, there is a natural influx of fresh air from living rooms.
Possible reasons for the inefficient operation of the forced ventilation system:
- discrepancy between the fan power and the area of the room;
- lack of power supply.
There are several principles of forced ventilation in a private house:
- exhaust
- air flow is drawn by the fan
- air flow occurs naturally
- 1 fan is used
- Supply
- polluted air is drawn out naturally
- fresh air flow from the street is blown by a fan
- 1 fan is used
- Mixed (supply and exhaust)
- both airflows are driven by fans
- 2 fans are used
- has a heat exchanger for transferring heat from the exhaust air to the incoming air flow
- creates recirculation (mixing) of supply air and part of the exhaust, already exhaust air
Supply and exhaust forced ventilation fully controls both the intake and exhaust air. The presence of filters cleans the air streams, and recuperation allows residents of a private house to save on heating.
Criteria for choosing the type of hood in a private household
To decide which of the ventilation systems is best suited for a private house, you need to know the following factors:
- environmental cleanliness of the air environment of the area of residence
- building materials used to build a building
- financial capacity of the homeowner
If the house is not located in a metropolis, but in an ecologically clean area, then it is advisable to use natural ventilation without additional volatile devices. Required condition installation of forced exhaust in a private house is based on the need for thorough cleaning of the incoming air flow. Also, a forced ventilation system will be required in buildings made of sealed materials, expanded polystyrene concrete, and panels.
Ventilation Requirements
After choosing a specific ventilation system for extracting exhaust air from the premises of a private house, it is necessary to take into account all the requirements for arranging ventilation:
- Dimensions of ventilation pipes or ducts are taken over
- rectangular channel: 10 by 12 cm
- pipe: d=12.5 cm
- Ventilation ducts should go to the roof of the house and end above the ridge of the building (from 0.5 m to 1.5 m). To protect against the ingress of debris, dirt, precipitation, a deflector or visor is installed on the pipe.
- The visor or deflector must be 2 times larger than the cross section of the ventilation duct.
- The bathroom and toilet must have their own, separate exhaust ducts.
- In the kitchen, 2 hoods are installed: above the stove (the size of the exhaust duct is at least 12.5 cm) and a backup one in case of a gas leak.
- 2 channels, if necessary, are combined only through a tee or a cross with a check valve.
- The boiler room is equipped with two hoods:
- at the boiler (the size of the ventilation duct depends on the power of the heating boiler. It is impossible to make a brick hood).
- reserve (the size is the same as above the boiler)
- It is advisable to lay ventilation ducts only in vertical directions. In the case of horizontal branches, their length should not exceed 2 m (to avoid traction disturbance).
- Exhaust ducts in the wall are best made from metal ducts. When using brick air ducts, it is desirable to line them with metal.
- In a room that does not have windows or vents, an exhaust hood must be installed.
- The ventilation riser is equipped with a sealed inspection door.
- If ventilation was not initially arranged in a private house, then the ventilation shaft is adjoined from the outside to the wall of the building with mandatory thermal insulation.
- Installing a ventilation hatch in the wall, below 15 centimeters from the ceiling level, will lead to reduced draft and stagnation of the air flow.
How to make a hood in a private house
To provide a private house with good ventilation, it is necessary to calculate the air exchange. Based on his testimony, the type of ventilation system, the diameter of the pipes are selected and a preliminary ventilation scheme is made.
The initial data for the calculation will be the total volume of two air flows (outflow and supply). Also, when calculating the hood for the house, you should take into account sanitary standards and the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.
According to the norms, air change (m 3 / h) differs for different types of premises:
- bathroom (combined) - 50 m 3 / h;
- bathroom - 25 m 3 / h;
- toilet - 25 m 3 / h;
- kitchen - 60 m 3 / h;
- living room - 40 m 3 / h;
- sleeping quarters - 20 m 3 / h;
In a residential building for one square meter area should account for at least three cubic meters of the replaced air flow. Therefore, when calculating the cross section of ventilation ducts, it is taken into account that the optimal value of air movement should be in the central ventilation duct - 5 m / s, side channels - a maximum of 3 m / s.
The overall performance of the hood in a small private house should be 300-350 m 3 / h. In a residential building with an area of 150-300 m 3, a productivity of 400 to 600 m 3 / h is required.