Do-it-yourself cold porcelain: recipes for cooking at home. Cold porcelain at home.

cold porcelain No. 1

Decorative molding - cold porcelain

Cold porcelain- this is a plastic mass, ideal for any type of work, the mass is similar to plasticine, but much better, as it dries and becomes hard. As stated above, anything can be sculpted from cold porcelain, it can be flowers, all kinds of figurines, etc. The mass for making cold porcelain can be bought in special decorative arts stores, it is available in pure white color, the finished product from it can be painted with acrylic paints at your discretion, flesh-colored porcelain is usually used when sculpting body parts, there are bright shades and more delicate ones. If you decide to try to sculpt something from this mass, you will need a few more things to achieve a quality result. So, these are: cold porcelain, a set of special sticks with different tips, a small rolling pin, molds for cutting flat figures, silicone molds - these can be flowers and leaves, different animals, etc., acrylic glue - in case you have to glue individual parts, a syringe with holes (spaghetti), toothpicks, wire for flowers, scissors, finishing varnish - matte or shiny. Cold porcelain can also be made at home in two ways, the first way is it's in the microwave. Ingredients: 2 tea cups cornmeal Maisen 2 tea cups of pva glue 1 tbsp lemon juice 2 tablespoons liquid vaseline (glycerin) 1 tbsp hand cream (not greasy) glass bowl wooden spoon How it's done: Mix all ingredients, except hand cream, in a glass bowl. Mix everything well into a homogeneous mass. Put the bowl in the microwave for 3 minutes at the highest temperature. Once a minute, mix the mass with a wooden spoon, this is necessary so that all the ingredients undergo uniform heat treatment. If necessary, you can keep the mass in the microwave for a couple more minutes, again stirring every minute. Now that the cold porcelain is ready, knead it well with your hands. This is done as follows: 1st spoon (without top) of low-fat cream is smeared on the marble surface of the table or on another smooth work surface. The still hot mass is laid out on the cream, and now we begin to knead with our hands, like dough, for several minutes, the longer you knead the mass, the better it will work with it. Then roll the mass into a roller and put in a hermetically sealed bag. Second way: cooking mass on fire. How it's done: Combine all ingredients, except hand cream, in a non-stick saucepan. Mix everything well into a homogeneous mass. Put the saucepan on medium heat. Stir constantly until the mass begins to peel off the walls and rolls into a ball. Be careful that thin films from the walls of the pan do not get into the mass. Now you need to knead the mass: 1 tablespoon (without top) of low-fat cream is smeared on the marble surface of the table or on another smooth work surface. The still hot mass is laid out on the cream, and now we begin to knead with our hands, like dough, for several minutes. Then we put it in a bag. How to paint the mass in bright colors? To get a bright color, you need oil paints. Make a small roller or ball from the mass, slightly squeeze out the paints and rub well until a uniform color. To get more delicate colors, use oil paints in small quantities. You can use food coloring. One tip: if you are doing something in a silicone mold, then the mold should be lightly greased with a small amount of cream, for example, Nivea, so that the product lags well behind the mold. Before sculpting, there is no need to lubricate the hands with cream, the mass does not stick to the hands.

Making cold porcelain-master class

Another recipe for cold porcelain and step by step instructions for making it at home.
What you need:
3/4 cup PVA glue
1/2 cup water
1 tsp cream (for example, such as Pond's)
1 tsp glycerin (or vaseline)
1 cup cornstarch, plus more for hands

Let's see step by step how to cook cold porcelain at home according to this recipe without using a microwave.
Prepare all the ingredients ahead of time before you start.
If possible, take old dishes. Although cold porcelain is not toxic, it is very sticky and will ruin good cookware.


Further
1. Combine all liquid ingredients in a saucepan. Put it on medium heat. Start stirring and continue until the mixture is smooth.

2. Add starch and continue mixing. Get ready - the mixture will begin to change its consistency very quickly. Keep interfering.

3. At first it will look like liquid cottage cheese ...



4. ... and after a few minutes it will begin to resemble mashed potatoes. When the mass begins to gather in a lump and lag behind the walls of the pan, it is ready.



5. Wrap it in a clean, wet kitchen towel. Then start kneading it with your hands. Since it is still very hot, in order not to burn yourself, soak a towel in cold water, cover the pan with it and dump the mass on a towel. Now break away for a second and fill the pan with hot water and dishwashing liquid and soak all the tools that you used in it.

6. Knead the mass through a towel until it is cool enough to be handled with bare hands.

7. Spread a little cornstarch on your palms and continue to knead the mass without a towel. Place a bowl of starch next to it and dip your hands in it periodically. So the mass will not stick to your hands. You can also dust your work surface with starch to keep the porcelain from sticking to it.

8. This recipe will give you a ball about the size of a grapefruit. After about five more minutes, the mass will become what it should be - soft, plastic and not sticky. The mass of cold porcelain is painted with acrylic or oil paint. This is done just at this stage.

While you are washing the dishes, place the mixture in a tightly sealed container or plastic bag. The dishes must be washed, otherwise it will dry out and then it will be much harder to wash it.
By the way, when you start sculpting, use something like a portable board, etc. For example, a baking sheet covered with aluminum foil works well. When you are done, while the product dries, you can always put it somewhere so that it does not interfere with you, and you with it.

Cold porcelain. Sculpting a dolmatian puppy

Master class: Puppy-dolmatian. We sculpt a puppy step by step.

Materials:

Cold porcelain ready-made or homemade (see recipe)
PVA glue
White colorant
Acrylic paints, oil paints or food coloring: sky blue, black, white, pink, red
Brushes, wide and for drawing points
Modeling tools: knife, spatula, etc.
Wooden skewer (which is for barbecue), or a candy stick (for connecting the head to the body)
2 foam balls as a base (reinforcement) for the head and body. Diameter 5cm - for the head and 6cm - for the body.

Note: PVA glue is used to connect body parts

Step 1. Head

We cover the foam ball for the head with a layer of cold porcelain. We sculpt a muzzle with our fingers, draw a mouth with a knife. We press with our fingers, a modeling tool with a round tip, or just a small ball to mark the place for the eye and nose.
Note: Styrofoam is used when sculpting from cold porcelain, if sculpting from polymer plastic, then foil should be taken as the basis. Because Styrofoam is not suitable for firing.

Step 2. Nose and eyes

From cold black porcelain, roll up a ball for the spout. From the ball we make a triangle with smoothed edges.
We make two teardrop-shaped details for the white eye (the whites of the eyes).
Two teardrop details blue color smaller (iris). And two more drops of black and even smaller size (pupils). Lay them one on top of the other. And put it aside for now.
From black porcelain, make two thin sausages for eyebrows and two for eyelashes.

Step 3 Ears

Make two drops of white for the ears.
For the inside of the ear, make two drops of pink and smaller size (see photo) and flatten them.
Connect these parts and bend a little.

Step 4. Spout

We attach a nose on the muzzle (if necessary, use glue)

Step 5 Ears

We place the ears on the head.

Step 6. Eyes

Glue the previously prepared eyes in place. Add eyebrows and eyelashes.
With the help of droplets of white paint, draw a sparkle in the eyes.

Step 7. Torso

Cover the larger styrofoam ball with porcelain. Add pieces of porcelain mass to eventually mold the pear-shaped body.

Step 8. Front legs

From porcelain of the same color as the body, roll up two sausages. Give them a cone shape. We sculpt paws from the wide end.
With a knife, make folds and fingers. Smooth out sharp edges.

Step 9. Hind legs (lower part)

Roll up two rather thick sausages, flatten them slightly.
Make folds and fingers in the same way.

Step 10. Top of the hind legs and tail

From porcelain of the same color, mold two ovals. This is the top of the hind legs. Flatten a little.
For the tail, roll up a thin long sausage, tapering towards one end.

Step 11 Attach the front legs to the body.

Glue (stick) the front legs to the body. Use glue if needed.

Step 12. Attach the hind legs.

Glue the lower part of the hind legs to the pope.

Step 13 Finish the hind legs.

We glue the upper part of the hind legs to the body above the lower part (our puppy is sitting).

Step 14. Ponytail

Glue the tail to the pope.

Step 15 Bow Details

The bow consists of several separate parts. Two loops, a central part and two ribbons.
The central part is a pancake made of red porcelain.

Step 16. Ribbon on the neck

Position the red pancake in place of the neck.

Step 17 Attaching the Head

Stick a wooden stick into your torso. It will hold the head. To do this, leave about 2.5 cm outside (above red porcelain). Before sticking the stick, lightly grease it with glue.
Lubricate the red porcelain (ribbon) with glue and put the head on the stick.

Step 18 Attaching the Bow

Gather and attach the bow as shown in the photo.

Step 19 Finish

And at the end, take a few small pieces of black porcelain, give them an oval shape and stick them all over the puppy's body, imitating the spots of a dolmatian.

"Cold porcelain" is a special mixture of cornstarch, glue, oil and glycerin, which is used for artistic modeling. They came up with "cold porcelain" in Argentina at the beginning of the last century.

To date, "cold porcelain" is perhaps the cheapest, very convenient and completely harmless material for modeling. It is convenient to make small details from it, it has a smooth, uniform texture, it is incredibly plastic and easy to use. Figures and products from "cold porcelain" can be made by both children and adults. Unlike plasticine, "cold porcelain" becomes hard when solidified, which is a definite plus.

“Cold porcelain” is also convenient because it is easy to make at home. There are several different ways to make this wonderful material. Here is the most common one.

Mix equal proportions of corn starch, water and baking soda. Add some vegetable oil. Cook the resulting mass over medium heat, until thickened, while not forgetting to stir it constantly. Then remove the mass from the pan and cover wet towel for a few minutes. As soon as the mass has cooled to a temperature where you can pick it up and not burn yourself, immediately start mixing it again with your hands. When the mass turns into a plastic ball, you can begin to be creative.

By the way, if you need colored material, you can add food coloring during cooking. And you can paint the products with acrylic paints after they are completely ready. Well, so that the material does not stick to your hands, lubricate them with any moisturizer before work.

Anything can be molded from "cold porcelain", this material gives a very wide scope for imagination. Use in your work not only the plastic mass, but also various accessories: beads, threads, shells, beads, pieces of fabric and any other interesting gizmos.

And for those who will not be modeling for the first time, here is another, more complex recipe for making “cold porcelain”.

Mix in a small saucepan three-quarters of a cup of PVA glue, one cup of corn starch, half a cup of water, one teaspoon of glycerin and one teaspoon of cream. You can take any cream, I use an inexpensive face cream to prepare a plastic mass. Thanks to the glycerin and cream included in the composition, the “cold porcelain” made according to this recipe has a very smooth, pleasant texture.

Finished products from "cold porcelain" will dry for several days. If after work you still have some part of the mass for modeling, you do not need to throw it away. Place the "cold china" in a plastic container and close the lid tightly. It will keep well in the fridge until the next time you want to sculpt again.

Fantasize, "cold porcelain" provides unlimited opportunities for creativity. A little practice, and you will get real works of art!

Porcelain ceramic flowers website: http://www.anriirene.com
Recipe from 04/02/15. As promised in the article "Composition of industrial self-hardening polymer clay", at the end of which there is a composition of Japanese cold porcelain Vitrium, or synthetic resin emulsion clay Vitrium(from which you can make flowers, jewelry, and miniatures), give your home recipe polymer clay, in which I relied on the composition (MSDS) declared by the manufacturer. I hope that many will like it =). This recipe is given here for the first time, so please indicate the author and link when using the materials of this article.
I suggest you read the information in the article." Ceramic floristry", it can be useful, especially for beginners.
You can see my works from cold porcelain in the "ceramic floristry" technique or on instagram @anri.irene_porcelain.art

Subscribe to my video channel Youtube Anri Irene to watch my video tutorials. My master class on sculpting roses from cold porcelain is there. I invite you!

You can see All my flowers made of polymer clay (cold porcelain) molded in style "botanical sculpture" "floristic sculpture"

Japanese Vitrium clay itself in modeling is quite dense, hard and resilient, but obedient (for example, fleur clay is much softer). After drying it is waterproof and very flexible. There are two types - transparent and opaque (like cold porcelain). We will make the recipe opaque, which after drying looks like classic cold porcelain.

Unfortunately, I didn’t have photos of my products from it (I bought it back in 2011), but, to present a picture from the Internet, how Vitrium looks in a dry form:

Vitrium polymer clay

Although I myself have not yet used Modena clay, but judging by the descriptions and feelings of modena master users, they are very similar in properties to Vitrium.

P/S. A little later after writing the article, I received a package with Modena polymer clay. My assumptions were correct - it is very similar to Vitrium, only a little softer and less durable.

In my recipe, I made it a little softer. This is, of course, an amateur. You can make it stiffer and denser. I named my recipe "Inspired by Vitrium". =))

This is how it (already according to my recipe) looks raw:

This is what it looks like when dried:

In the finished flower:

There are more flowers from it at the very end of the article.

It is painted in the same way as homemade cold porcelain, and as purchased polymer clays self-hardening in air. Water resistance and flexibility after drying depend on the PVA glue used to prepare cold porcelain. After drying, the petals are flexible. Dries faster than boiled HF.

I saved the MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET document on Vitrium, in which the manufacturer gives the composition. Of course, there is no technology, recipe and quantity, but I decided to try my recipe, especially since the composition is very simple and affordable.

Vitrium polymer clay composition:

- Ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA, EVA)- I I used improvised white PVA glue, because. Unfortunately, I don't have EVA glue yet.

- Fatty acid- take stearin (you can grated stearin candle). There are many types of fatty acids. Perhaps you can try other options.

- Cellulose - I have cotton fine powder (like flour)

- Pregelatinized starch -I used Bison starch wallpaper paste, which simply dilutes with water and swells into a paste. As part of the glue, only starch was written (without details), which I do not know for sure, but modified. It is snow-white in color, not very large flakes. Additionally, to make it smaller and more evenly dissolved, I ground it into powder in a coffee grinder. It’s a pity that I don’t have pregelatinized, swollen starch yet, so I used what was at hand. Perhaps pregelatinized starch would have been even better.

- Water and others- so it was written "and others." I think it means humectants or wetting agents, like glycerin, propylene glycol, etc.

More likely (these are my guesses), the manufacturer, preparing this mass for modeling, does not "cook" it, i.e. does not expose to temperature, tk. It already contains pregelatinized starch. So ordinary starch and cellulose will just be fillers.

I once tried to make cold porcelain from wallpaper glue (there are recipes on the Internet, reprinted and copied many times), but I didn’t like it at all. At least, it is not suitable for sculpting realistic flowers.But the recipe "based on Vitrium" differs in composition.

Recipe for polymer clay without cooking "based on Vitrium":

PVA glue Bison wood D2 - 110 gr (not milliliters)

Glycerin - 1 tsp

Propylene glycol - 0.5 tsp (can be replaced with glycerin)

Wallpaper glue Bison universal - 4 gr. (1 tsp) ground to a fine powder.

Mix PVA glue, glycerin, propylene glycol, pour wallpaper paste into it and leave to swell for a couple of hours. After mixing the wallpaper paste, the mass in terms of density looks something like in the first picture:

While the wallpaper paste swells, I melt the stearin (a finely grated candle) in equal proportions mixed with petroleum jelly and baby oil (one teaspoon each), mix everything well and cool. We do not boil this cold porcelain, therefore, so that there are no lumps of grated stearin, we melt it first.

Mix everything well with a spatula until smooth. The photo above shows how the process looks like and the mass itself in the process =)). Then 1/4 teaspoon of starch and 1/4 tsp were poured onto the table. tylose (SMS, CMC) and finally thoroughly kneaded. I left it for a day (like the usual classic HF). The next day, the mass became much denser.

If you do without tylose, then you need to add a little more starch. You can also adjust the density and density yourself, according to your preferences, by adding more starch or tylose. Just do not rush to add a lot of tylose at once (no more than 1/4 tsp additionally, i.e. no more than 1/2 tsp in total), because. it can swell within 18-20 hours and as a result the mass can become too rigid and, subsequently, more brittle. The picture above shows that the dried mass with tylose looks more matte and dense.

Improved No Boil Cold Porcelain Recipe

A small afterword. I also wanted to write why I decided to try to make several different working recipes for cold porcelain without heat treatment (without boiling), although I personally prefer boiled mass. It's just a habit, some kind of warm affection for him. Even the process of preparation and transformation is very pleasant. Unboiled cold porcelain undoubtedly also has its own, and quite big advantages.

Well, glue is the culprit.I noticed that some types of glue, even very good, very elastic after drying in its pure form, when preparing CF in the classical way (treatment with temperature), become either brittle after drying, or rigid, not flexible, or both.Yes, and the mass itself with them is heterogeneous, "curdled", although it is possible to mold something. It is also not always possible to buy glue that meets all our requirements. And in recipes without cooking, glue behaves differently. Petals after drying remain flexible and durable. Of course, the strength also largely depends on the glue, and in this case - if it is "weak", then it is not able to firmly bind-glue the dry components. But, for example, high-quality glue for furniture or laminate should cope with this. Wood flour is added to them to make a thick putty, for restoration, for example, chips.

My samples are still several months old - they have not lost flexibility and strength. Strength, of course, is also not an unambiguous concept, but I deliberately dropped ready-made roses upside down on the tiled floor - they remain intact, nothing breaks off or breaks. For me, that's enough strength. If the petals are very thin and narrow, sharp, then the tip may break off (honestly, I haven’t tried it, this is my guess). But even with purchased well-known HF brands, this can happen.

Overall, I am very pleased with my new recipes. Of course, the structure of the mass itself is slightly different from the classic HF, but you get used to it very quickly, literally on 3-4 petals. You may need to tweak my recipes a little for yourself, because. the density of the glue is different, the degree of swelling of pregelatinized starch, wallpaper glue, tylose, alginate, tragacanth, cellulose, etc. is different. But as a basic guideline, or starting point, they can be used.

With new recipes, there is now more choice to make the mass according to your needs and requirements: matte-glossy, transparent-opaque, dense-soft, hard or elastic, etc. And one more important factor - we can even use the glue that was not suitable for the classic "boiled" recipe for some reason. I have a lot of these bottles, which are now well used =)).

P/S: Maybe someone will come in handy. Links to powdered cellulose (natural) that might be suitable for cold porcelain:
Cellulose powder PCS. CJSC Policell, Vladimir
Cellulose powder LLC "Sadko", Kiev
Cellulose powder Arbocel - description in Russian
Cellulose powder ARBOCEL in Germany, the company J. RETTENMAIER & SÖHNE.

My other recipes

I propose to cook cold porcelain without heat treatment. COLD, SO COLD!!!

Don't worry, it won't take more than 10 minutes....

We take 2 tablespoons of corn starch. / do not pay attention to the labels on the packages ... /

Add 1 tablespoon of vaseline oil, but you can also use Johnson's Baby oil, which is in all stores and in all homes ..

And preferably a couple of drops of glycerin

Grind the butter with starch, clean the spoon with your finger ...

We take a teaspoon and take baking soda on the tip of the spoon / quite a bit /

We take 2 spoons of glue ... In Italy, Vinavil ...
TRY THE PVA GLUE YOU USE!

Mix everything with a spoon... and clean the spoon with your finger...

Let's stir .... not for long

If you see that it is too tight / depends on the glue /, add a little more

We cleaned the spoon, scraped off the whole mixture from the bowl, pressed it into our hands and crushed ....

Literally in a couple of minutes you will get such a pleasant, almost ready, our COLD PORCELAIN.
Do not forget to pour water into the bowl, then it will be easily washed off ...

See what a beauty!!!

See what a beauty!!!

Now we take the hand cream / which you use / lubricate your hand, fall on our HF and in cellophane ...

Now we take the hand cream / which you use / lubricate your hand, fall on our HF and in cellophane ... Ah, I left a small piece of HF to show you that it is already ready for use ...

Here with the help of a toothpick blinded on hastily flower .... HF-PERFECT!!!

Who has not sculpted yet, try to mold such peppers .... THESE ARE MY FIRST PEPPERS .... it is very exciting to sculpt ...

I almost forgot, if your mixture seems too sticky to you, or doesn’t hold its shape very well, roll it in starch and knead it between your palms ... THIS IS THE ALL SECRET! GOOD LUCK YOU GIRLS!!!

I hope that my MK will be useful to you. Especially for those who are afraid to cook HF.

Watch the video-MK here, as the author girasole2161 makes lilac using HF with the addition of gypsum!

These are all 3 videos. Click on the picture to see how to view!

Even the vase is made from HF!

Recipe: corn starch - 2 cups, PVA - 2 cups, a tablespoon of vaseline oil, half a teaspoon of glycerin and half a spoonful of soda. Try replacing soda with lemon juice. Always add white paint, even if you paint it in different colors in the future. from starch transparency. Or try to give the mass whiteness with titanium dioxide. You need to add a little, after dissolving in a tiny dose of glycerin. Otherwise, you will find crumbs in the mass. Add a couple of drops of lavender essence. The product will smell fragrant for a long time.

Try to look for PVA furniture and Titanium glue. The result depends on the quality of the oil by 95%. Take them equally, so that the volume of glue \u003d was the volume of starch. Someone measures in grams, but I measure with a large glass. But both of these adhesives with a plasticizer will be better. Plasticizers are sold separately, but they are expensive. Although the quality of porcelain is greatly improved. They are sold in automotive stores, where everything is for painting cars.

Here is a recipe with rice starch. Porcelain is very good for sculpting small details. The color is white, not transparent, the structure is more rigid.

and here with the addition of potato starch:

from potato starch in porcelain, the color is grayish and a little harsh, but if you grease your hands with cream, the stiffness will disappear!

a lot of questions arose about how to color HF. I decided to supplement the post with a video using clay as an example, but there is no difference in this:

I paint with acrylics, sometimes I dilute them heavily with water - the colors are delicate, pastel. Acrylic gives a deeper color. Try gouache or watercolor - they become brighter when dried. There is also a universal tinting concentrate called PUFAMIX made in Germany. . The color effect is amazing, very real colors, saturated. And the most important thing! When you add acrylic or oil paint, the structure of porcelain suffers, but it does not change at all from the concentrate. You can use dry pastel. I use very fine colored crayons, cocoa powder, dry food coloring, I use lipstick, blush, sometimes shadows :) Experiment!

* The product dries out by 20-30% after drying
* Formalin - toxic - avoid contact with hands and mucous membranes. Helps prevent the dough from cracking as it dries. It should be added to the chilled mass.
* You need to cook the mass in glass or Teflon dishes, but not in aluminum.
* Many recipes advise that the finished mass should be allowed to settle for 1 day.
* Never store the mass in the refrigerator.
* To remove moisture, change the package of the mass 24 hours after preparation and wrapping.
* In order to avoid cracks, you need to knead the mass very carefully
* It is important to coat the mass with baby oil before wrapping in foil, otherwise fungus may develop.
* Lubricate your hands with cream before working with cold porcelain so that the mass does not stick to your hands too much.

The process and result of mixing may depend on the properties of the paints, below are approximate recommendations and tips.
Different clays require different color mixing techniques.

For work, it is desirable to have the main - the basic white color of clay, it goes most of all when sculpting, and a set of primary colors: red, yellow, green, blue, brown, black.
Other colors can be obtained by mixing.
This general scheme mixing colors:
red + yellow = yellow-orange, orange, brick
red, + blue = crimson, burgundy, purple
red + blue = pink, scarlet, purple
yellow + blue = dark green, emerald green, yellow green
yellow + blue \u003d light green, turquoise, salad
light green + red = light grassy, ​​swamp green
dark green + red = dark grassy, ​​olive, brown
yellow-orange + brown = golden
brown + red = reddish brown (terracotta)
brown + yellow = chestnut
purple + blue = blue-violet
pink + orange = salmon
pink + yellow = tea rose

How to mix oil or acrylic paints to get the right color for further kneading them with clay.

Hot pink = red + white
Berry \u003d scarlet + red + red-brown
Burgundy (more scarlet) \u003d scarlet + red + brown: red + scarlet + yellow (drop) + green
Cherry (more red) \u003d scarlet + red + brown: red + scarlet + yellow (drop) + green
Creamy chocolate (more scarlet) = red + scarlet + yellow (drop) + green
Dark chocolate (more red) = red + scarlet + yellow (drop) + green
Beige = Chocolate + Yellow + White
Thick honey \u003d scarlet + yellow (wheat) + green (drop)
Orange = scarlet + yellow
Peach \u003d chocolate + orange (scarlet + yellow) + green (drop)
Warm greens (more scarlet) = scarlet + red + green + yellow (the more yellow, the greener is softer in color)
Cold green (more red) = scarlet + red + green (more green) + yellow (drop)
lime = yellow + green
Salad \u003d yellow + green + blue (drop)
Pistachio \u003d yellow + green + a little brown (red + scarlet + yellow (drop) + green)
Aquamarine = green + blue
Purple = red + blue
Cornflower blue \u003d purple + red-brown (drop) + blue + some black
Blood red (for poppies) = scarlet + green or black (composite)
Black \u003d black (from a can) + dark chocolate: red (more than scarlet) + scarlet + yellow (drop) + green

The combination of tones to create bouquets.

These combinations will help create a unique bouquet.
Red - Green, Grey, Blue
Crimson - Pearl gray, mauve
Dark Red (Bordeaux) - Black, Dark Blue, Beige
Scarlet - Light blue, green
Dense pink - Various shades of blue
Brown-pink - Blue, cream
Pale pink - Salad, pale lilac, blue
Orange - Purple, pale blue, bright blue
Salad yellow - Pale pink, grayish blue
Yellow - Purple, blue, green
Pale yellow - Light lilac, grey-pink, pale green
Golden - Light grey, green, dark red
Dark Green - Brown, Beige
Grey-green, aquamarine - Cornflower blue, orange
Pale Green - Pink, Dark Green, Purple Pink
Blue - Yellow, sand, orange
Grey-blue - Bordeaux, gray
Pale blue - Pale lilac, pale yellow
Dark Lilac - Orange, Gray
Violet - Light and dark shades of green
Pale lilac - Green, grey, mauve
mauve - emerald green, dark red, brown
Brown - Orange, red, beige
Gray - Purple, crimson, pale lilac
Gray color is considered universal. It can harmonize with almost all other colors. Gray color has many shades and is a wonderful background. He is calm and neutral. But alone, it can seem boring, so it is best used in combination with other colors.

And since I have acrylic paints, I buy acrylic varnish. I have 2 of them: shiny and matte. When I need shine, I cover with shiny, and I cover the flowers with matte.

.

There are paints for porcelain. But they are more expensive, in my opinion there is no difference when painting, it is better to use them for their intended purpose:

Improved recipe for boiled cold porcelain. Mistakes. Tips. And 19 more recipes. Recipes for modeling and decoupage pastes SELF-HARDENING PASTE We take 10 tbsp. spoons of starch, PVA glue and toothpaste. Knead like a dough, you can add some water. Sculpt whatever! It freezes after 20 minutes. Modeling paste is very expensive, but this one is cheaper and not inferior in properties. *** Cold porcelain hot way. 1. Corn starch - 1.5 parts (it has a whiter color than potato) 2. PVA glue - 1 part 3. Glycerin (available at the pharmacy) - 1 tbsp. spoon 4.Nivea-type cream - 1 tbsp. spoon 5.Water - 1/3 part Mix everything well and put on the stove. With constant stirring, heat up and wait for the appearance of the ball. Put the mass on the table, sprinkle with starch and knead (hot!). The resulting dough should not be very sticky to your hands. If it sticks, add a little starch and heat it again in the microwave (no more than 20 seconds). At the end of kneading, generously grease your hands with cream. We tightly wrap our dough with a film and put it in an airtight dish. You can store it at room temperature *** Cold porcelain 1/4 cup water 1/4 cup cornstarch 1/4 cup soda Mix all the ingredients and cook, stirring constantly until a ball forms. This recipe is ideal for sculpting flowers and miniature details. *** From egg trays Egg cartons. PVA glue. 1. We tear the egg cells (or trays) into pieces and pour boiling water over them. We do it in the evening. The next morning, you can begin to knead the mass for modeling. 2. We squeeze out pieces of trays from the water that have managed to turn into porridge a little. Add some PVA glue and start kneading. Do it better with rubber gloves. It is necessary to knead until completely homogeneous. The "dough" should be tough/dense/thick. With this mass, you can make "bas-reliefs" on almost all surfaces. salt dough plastic If you add PVA to water when making salt dough, you get a kind of plastic. Salty dough: 1 cup flour 1 glass of salt 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1/2 cup water Pour a glass of salt into a deep bowl (or any other convenient container) and pour half a glass hot water. Next, we stir the salt with water and add a glass of flour. Stir the salty dough until smooth. For convenience, you can use a mixer. In the salty dough, you need to add one or two tablespoons of vegetable oil, dry wallpaper paste or a spoonful of hand cream. Vigorously mix everything in the bowl with your hands, if the dough is too sticky to your hands, add a little flour mixed with salt. Put the resulting mass of salt dough in a plastic bag and place in the refrigerator for 2-3 hours. After that, you can sculpt from salt dough. If after modeling you still have dough left, then store it in the refrigerator in a plastic bag. *** If flour is added to PVA + gouache, then volumetric contours are super strong and easy to use. *** I remind you that acrylic paint can be replaced with gouache + PVA glue. The ratio is taken 1:1 or 1:2, depending on the thickness of the paint. This mixture can be used to paint glass, wood, ceramics, canvas. To create a homemade modeling self-hardening mass, type DAS, you will need: building putty for interior work, fine-grained 1 part + PVA building glue 1 part + starch or baby powder, talc in relation to the already obtained mass of approximately 4-5 parts + a little pharmacy glycerin (a couple of drops) and this mass must first be kneaded in a bowl, and when the mass begins to form into a lump - with hands lubricated in a fat cream. Self-hardening clay recipe To make this self-hardening mass, we need: 2 cups baking soda 1 cup cornstarch 1 1/4 cups water Preferably a non-stick pan, a spatula for kneading the dough and a wet towel. And now we will study the sequence of this batch: Pour all the listed ingredients into a saucepan. Put on fire and stir constantly. When the whole mass disperses, add a couple of drops of cinnamon oil or other aromatic oil to it for a pleasant smell of the product. But you don't have to do that :) And after 5 minutes, this mass will begin to solidify at the bottom of the pan, gathering in a lump, so we stir all the time and scrape the mass from the bottom, collecting it in a lump. When the mass turns into a kind of "mashed potatoes" - remove the pan from the heat and dump the contents into a bowl or on waxed baking paper, cover with a wet waffle towel on top and wait a bit for the mass to cool. And then we knead the mass in a lump, having greased our hands with a greasy cream before that. So that the edges of this lump do not freeze, we keep the contents in a bowl with an airtight lid or wrap it in cling film. Products can dry on their own in air or a battery. To do this, lay them out on wax paper. Or you can speed up the process and send your products into a preheated oven to 150 F and leave them there with the lid ajar. At the same time, we turn off the oven. Salt dough aroma stone recipe: - 2 cups of flour - 1 glass of extra salt - 1/4 teaspoon corn starch (optional) - 2/3 cup hot water - 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil (will give the dough plasticity) - 5 - 25 drops of essential oil (depending on the desired intensity of the smell and the strength of the oil itself or mixture) - dye (dry food or liquid - quantity depending on the desired color intensity) Manufacturing: Mix all dry ingredients. Add dyes and essential oils to the water. Pour water into dry mix. Knead the dough with your hands, it should turn out to be very dense and not sticky to your hands, if it is not dense enough, add more salt and flour. We divide the dough into parts, and then you can use silicone molds for baking or soap - we tightly stuff our dough into them and leave it to dry for a day, then carefully remove our "stone" and let it dry for another 5-6 days. Instead of silicone molds, you can use metal molds to cut dough for cookies, you can mold simple figures. In the process of sculpting, a piece of tied rope or ribbon can be threaded into the future stone; when the stone dries, it can be hung on it. You can also use dried flowers and seeds for decoration, and instead of dyes, paint, for example, with cinnamon or turmeric or paprika.)))) You can also bake in the oven at a low temperature of 80-130 degrees, but then exclude the essential oil from the recipe and add it to the cooled baked stones, so you save time for them to dry. Stones should not be varnished, as varnish will clog pores and spoil the porous structure designed to absorb oil. The smell of oil in the stone lasts from 1 day to a month, it all depends on the amount of oil and the intensity of the smell. Gypsum mass Gypsum is kneaded 1: 1 with water, to which it is desirable to add a little PVA building glue or sugar to slow down hardening. After pouring the mold withlightly tap the mold on the surface to compact the mass and get rid of voids and bubbles.

Cold porcelain is a mixture of starch, glue, oil and glycerin used for artistic modeling. There are several recipes for making cold porcelain with your own hands, suitable for beginners. Before making cold porcelain, it is important to know that the shade will depend on the composition of the products and the recipe itself. Products made from corn porcelain are transparent and airy, have a slightly yellowish tint, while those made from potato porcelain are denser and grayish.

How to make cold porcelain?

Recipe number 1 - DIY cold porcelain

You will need:

• 150 ml of PVA glue;
• 100 ml of water;
• 1 tsp white hand cream;
• 1 tsp glycerin (vaseline);
• 150 g (1 cup) corn starch, plus extra for kneading

Cooking:

Often craftsmen in the process of work change the composition and improve the cold porcelain recipe.

Recipe #2 - Improved Cold Porcelain Recipe

Ingredients are taken from recipe number 1.

Cooking:

Such porcelain is more uniform and smooth. In the figure on the left is the mass made according to the second recipe, and on the right - according to the first.

Recipe number 3 - Making cold porcelain from potato starch without cooking

You will need:

• potato starch;
• vaseline or vaseline oil;
• baking soda;
• PVA glue.

Cooking:

How to paint cold porcelain?

You can paint cold porcelain using various paints (oil, acrylic, oil, etc.) and food coloring, for this you need to add color to the finished mass and knead so that the color is evenly distributed.

To color the finished frozen product, dry food paint is applied to the element with a brush, then it is held over the steam from the kettle. In this case, the porcelain will absorb the dye and get a more natural color.

How to work with cold porcelain?

• after kneading, the mass should lie down for at least a day;
• before work, grease your hands with cream;
• use special tools (stacks, sticks, rolling pin, etc.);
• store in sealed packaging.

How long does cold porcelain dry?

The drying time of cold porcelain depends on the thickness of the product and varies from one to several days, while the size of the product decreases. When drying, flat figures must be turned over so that they do not deform. You can speed up the drying process with the help of an oven, where the products are baked at a minimum temperature.

Cold porcelain is a very plastic material, you can mold anything from it. You can use various materials to decorate your masterpieces: beads, beads, threads, shells, pieces of fabric, etc.

For modeling, you can use other do-it-yourself masses: or.

Another option for making cold porcelain. Without cooking

Another option for making cold porcelain. Well, very simple. WITHOUT COOKING! And with potato starch.

I saw this MK VKontakte in several places at once. I didn’t check ... And I don’t know who the author is, therefore, sorry, without a link to the source!

Master class, cold porcelain recipe (HF)

Hello dear.
Today I will teach you how to make cold porcelain, without heat treatment. This is a very cheap and fast way.

To create HF, we need the following ingredients:
- Corn starch (I use potato starch)
- Vaseline or vaseline oil
- Baking soda
- PVA glue

Cooking

1. The first thing we will do is put two tablespoons of starch into a clean and dry plate. We take one spoonful of petroleum jelly and rub it in a plate along with starch. After you have thoroughly mixed everything, add baking soda at the tip of a teaspoon, and mix again.

Then gradually add glue, starting with 1 teaspoon, adding as needed. Stir, if too thick and tight then add glue. Before you take the mixture in your hands in order to knead it, I recommend lubricating your hands with cream or petroleum jelly.
Here is our porcelain and ready.

In this photo, cold porcelain of various colors. White is what happened right away. I got the light pink with lip gloss, just mixed HF and gloss. Pink turned out by adding bright red lipstick. And brown, using regular cocoa.
We make the product, let it cool for a day, as much as possible. Then varnished or sanded.

Store HF preferably in a bag or jar.